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Old 01-27-2012, 12:18 PM   #1
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kitchen cabinet crown moulding


how do I cut an inside corner if it is a feature door and not a 45 angle. Its more like a 22.5


Last edited by dianna antinozz; 01-27-2012 at 12:20 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:16 PM   #2
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kitchen cabinet crown moulding


Set your saw on half the 22.5, the mitre and the bevel, and hold the crown against the fence the way it sits against the cabinet (on a 45).
On the other piece, you'll need to flip the crown upside down and swing the miter on the table the opposite direction.
I know this sounds confusing; the trick is that you're not cutting the crown with it flat in the saw, but held up against the fence, so that the flat surfaces on the back top and bottom sit squarely on the table and against the fence.
Just play with a scrap or two; you'll figure it out.


Last edited by titanoman; 01-27-2012 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:06 AM   #3
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kitchen cabinet crown moulding


For a tight joint that will never open, cope all inside corners. One side is installed without cutting. The other side is cut at the molding angle(usually 45deg), and the molding profile is trimmed to fit into the opposite piece. A coping saw, utility knife, dremel tools, etc., can all be used to make it a perfect fit.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:11 PM   #4
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kitchen cabinet crown moulding


I am guessing you are installing onto something like the face of a corner susan cabinet. If you were mitering the 2 pieces, each would by cut at 22.5 degrees. To do a coped corner, cut thefirst piece to fill the corner so cut it 22.5 degrees past a 90 degree square cut. That piece will fill in any hollow from the back cut you will put on the cope of the next piece. The next piece that will form into the first piece is cut at 22.5 degrees with the short side on the face of the crown. (Let me mention that when cutting crown, I cut the pieces with the wall or cabinet side placed against the back fence and the ceiling side upside down against the saw base so remember to focus on working on the opposite end because you will flip it when you raise it up into place.) Once you have cut the 22.5 cut on the second piece, you will need to cut very precisely along the cut line where the area of the cut meets the face. The more accurately you make this cut, the better the piece will join to the first piece. The old tried and true method of making this cut is with a coping saw, then finishing the cut with shaped files. I have developed a way of laying a shim next to where I will cut, on the face of the crown, and using my jig saw with a fine toothed metal blade to make the cut. I can rough cut with a backset quite quickly and accurately this way. Instead of files, I use a small angle grinder to fine tune the cut and give more backset. These steps of coping take practice to perfect, but once you do, you will never try to miter corners again. Please note that for this 22.5 degree cope, you will have to backset the cope cut at least 45 degrees for the first piece to fit behind the second one. This is where a steady hand and the angle grinder make quick work out of the process. Once you are done you will have a razor sharp edge along the cope line that will meld nicely to the shape of the first piece. I usually run a bead of glue on the back of this edge. I have been installing crown for over 20 years and get rave reviews on the fit of the corners. So, work meticulously, patiently, and calmly and best of luck.
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