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-   -   Interior Wall Stud Joist Connection Issues. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/interior-wall-stud-joist-connection-issues-43025/)

Brandnewruins 04-22-2009 12:42 PM

Interior Wall Stud Joist Connection Issues.
 
Okay, so I'm new on this forum and this is my first time posting. I'm more of a flooring guy but have done some light mixed carpentry. I've recently rented an old commercial suite with a friend and am getting some free rent in order to put in a privacy wall and a kitchen sink (budget is the keyword). Soooooo,
basically I need to build a wall 12ft long running into a 2 1/2 foot toe wall. This will leave 3ft passageway into kitchen area etc in this big passageway in the photos. Now I haven't exactly started this project yet but am today and am kinda sure about a couple things. 1. Where I want this wall to run into other walls there are no studs. 2. This wall will run parallel with the ceiling joists and most likely does not fall directly on one. K. So here in lies my questions. This house is like 60 years old. I don't have to make any of this stuff perfect by any means. The tongue and groove boards are 1 inch thick and tougher than **** to take down on the ceiling and walls. If I put a decently ample amount of spread out 10d's in the sole and top plates and make sure I have a really sturdy toe wall to run into can I get away with not ripping out these hella old boards to nail in? And I reiterate the strength and oldness of these walls and ceilings. The wall I'm building needs no electrical or plumbing. Only 1 hollow core 2ft doorway. That poses my second question. I want the door on the passageway side by the corner of the toe and front wall opening inward. What is the best way to pre measure this on my sole plate or should I just cut it in later? Thanks so much everyone!

http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/t...ruins/wall.jpghttp://i604.photobucket.com/albums/t...uins/wall1.jpg
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/t...uins/wall3.jpghttp://i604.photobucket.com/albums/t...uins/wall2.jpg

Jarrod 04-22-2009 03:54 PM

If you have 1 inch thick bead board on the ceiling and walls that will be enough meat to toe-nail into
I would back it up with a little liquid nails on all the plate surface. Now the door opening: just cut plates
and nail in as normal then center your door in the opening. Good luck

Ron6519 04-22-2009 04:00 PM

With the wood ceiling being 1" thick, just screw the top plate to the ceiling.
The rough opening for a 24" door will be 26" wide by 81-82" high. Clearance under the door will depend on the finished floor. If it's just a threshold, make it 81". With carpet it can be higher.
Ron

Brandnewruins 04-22-2009 10:12 PM

Hey thanks! That's all I needed was a little reassurance that going with this VERY sturdy ceiling and wall would suffice for a little ol' wall.

KOHNSTRUCTION 04-23-2009 12:41 AM

just go for it
if you already thought about it its like done already
hey look its only a partition wall who cares, glue the studs ,nail it and screw it, sheetrock and caulk you can do it

Mop in Hand 04-23-2009 12:46 AM

You might want to re-think a 24" door. Moving things and out may be a problem.


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