Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Carpentry

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-23-2011, 11:48 AM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 3
Share |
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


How can I build a large 40 ft long by 17 ft high interior wall on a concrete floor that has heat tubes all in it?

pattie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 11:51 AM   #2
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 3
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


ok, saftety is important

pattie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 12:44 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Near Philly
Posts: 2,000
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


By making sure you don't hit the tubes when anchoring the sole plate to the concrete but that is obvious. Are the pipes metal? Might be able to have someone come in to detect their layout. If you've building plans from the home's building process, they may show them as well. I doubt (but others will surely chime in) that construction adhesive to anchor would be sufficient.
bob22 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 01:30 PM   #4
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 3
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


The tubes are not metal and there are no plans that show them. I was hoping that glue would do it. But if not we may have to use a track ( at top) type of partition. This is a church where we are trying to divide the sanctuary.
pattie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 01:44 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Atlantic Canada
Posts: 378
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


Perhaps you could have someone with a thermographic scanner come in and help you identify their locations?
shazapple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 05:29 PM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Vermont
Posts: 762
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


turn the heat up and have someone scan it
mrgins is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to mrgins For This Useful Post:
oh'mike (09-23-2011), Ron6519 (09-24-2011)
Old 09-25-2011, 06:15 PM   #7
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,674
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


turning up the heat wont do it, it will give a close location but its still too much risk and if you do hit a pipe its a huge mess to fix.

snap a chalkine on the floor for the sole plate location then mark a plumb line on each end up the wall then snap a line on the ceiling, fix the top plate to the ceiling then cut all your studs slightly snug while gluing the sole plate to teh floor, as you work your way along make sure to keep the sole plate on the chalk line. you dont need to fill every stud at first just enough for the bottom plate to be kept on the line. let the glue set up then finish studding in the wall
woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 06:22 AM   #8
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Vermont
Posts: 762
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


Quote:
Originally Posted by wooworkbykirk View Post
turning up the heat wont do it, it will give a close location but its still too much risk and if you do hit a pipe its a huge mess to fix.

snap a chalkine on the floor for the sole plate location then mark a plumb line on each end up the wall then snap a line on the ceiling, fix the top plate to the ceiling then cut all your studs slightly snug while gluing the sole plate to teh floor, as you work your way along make sure to keep the sole plate on the chalk line. you dont need to fill every stud at first just enough for the bottom plate to be kept on the line. let the glue set up then finish studding in the wall
I agree it's a huge mess to fix, but if, as shazapple suggested, you use a thermographic scanner, it should give you the location of the pipes.
This is too long of a wall, and in a heavily used area to rely on just glue. How deep into the floor do they lay these pipes? is it possible to drill a 1/2" deep hole to sink a pin into thru the bottom plate? This would prevent lateral movement in combination with adhesive.
mrgins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 07:36 AM   #9
DIY staff
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 21,501
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


I've glued the bottom plate on a hydronic heated floor---(PL Premium)---never had a problem---However a wall that tall makes me nervous---

The tubes are often quite close to the surface---a thermo imaging camera will give you the info that you need---Mike----
__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 12:22 PM   #10
STAFF
 
BigJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: East Tennessee
Posts: 7,271
Blog Entries: 1
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


When I lived in west Tennessee I could get an adhesive called F-26 made by Leeches. I glued a 2X4 on the floor and had to move it three days later, I literally had to take the 2X4 up in splinters then chisel the glue up. I can't get it on this end of the state but I wouldn't be afraid of using just that glue as I know it would hold especially with a 17 foot wall pressure on top of it.

I used this glue on all my stairs and stubborn plates and never had the first problem.
http://www.leechadhesives.com/F26products.htm

Quite odd, on a church post and my post count is 666.
__________________
New members: Please consider adding your location to your profile.

Jim

Last edited by BigJim; 09-26-2011 at 12:25 PM.
BigJim is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 12:37 PM   #11
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 309
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


Quote:
Originally Posted by jiju1943 View Post
When I lived in west Tennessee I could get an adhesive called F-26 made by Leeches. I glued a 2X4 on the floor and had to move it three days later, I literally had to take the 2X4 up in splinters then chisel the glue up. I can't get it on this end of the state but I wouldn't be afraid of using just that glue as I know it would hold especially with a 17 foot wall pressure on top of it.

I used this glue on all my stairs and stubborn plates and never had the first problem.
http://www.leechadhesives.com/F26products.htm

Quite odd, on a church post and my post count is 666.
Could be argued the devil made you do it.
oldhouseguy is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to oldhouseguy For This Useful Post:
BigJim (09-26-2011)
Old 09-26-2011, 12:54 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,731
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


Even if they existed, I would not trust plans for locating these lines; too many variables. However, if I knew who the heating contractor was, I would definitely contact them, on the chance, albeit slim, that they have accurate photographs or sketches, "as built". Otherwise, based on our experience at locating such lines in shops and barns, using infrared, for the purpose of mounting equipment to the floor, I would give it at least a 75% of succeding. Depending on their spacing, and where you would need to anchor the wall, you could have several inches of room for error each way.
DexterII is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 03:36 PM   #13
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,674
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


typically the pipes should be towards the bottom portion of the slab, if they were properly fastened they will be held down with stirrups. however when the slab is placed the concrete finishers are sloshing around int eh concrete and hooking their feet up on them. dont risk puncturing a pipe for a wall.

the other thing is the glue is simply there to keep the wall from sliding laterally not to hold it down for vertical, same as the pin . glue wont be an issue
woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 04:22 PM   #14
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 166
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


Glueing the bottom sole plate is more than sufficient. I would not recommend drilling or puncturing the concrete surface. Fixing a leak in a polyethylene pipe is a major undertaking.

The height of the wall has no bearing on the question of strength whether the bottom plate is fixed to the concrete or not. As this is an internal partition, there are no external live loads like wind applying horizontal forces. The only live loads likely are people pressing against the wall, and even if this happens, the wall will buckle, but the bottom plate will stay firm. Of more concern is the dead load, and the weight of the wall itself, buckling the studs and causing the wall to bow. I would ask for 2"x8" studs to be on the safe side, with 3 sets of noggings or blocks. Ask a structural engineer to check these sizes. There should also be galvanized strap bracing nailed across each stud at approx. 45 deg. angle and criss-crossed for each 16'0" panel. Also, remember to install wiring for power, light, data, Display TV, intercom, wall clock etc as required and before applying drywall sheeting. Also you may consider pressing in acoustic batts if the wall needs to be sound proofed. Cheers, from the land of OZ.
JoJo-Arch is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to JoJo-Arch For This Useful Post:
woodworkbykirk (09-26-2011)
Old 09-26-2011, 04:56 PM   #15
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,674
Default

interior wall on heated concrete floor


ahhh, another chippy getting into the mix. great minds think alike

since its a partition wall, the metal let in T-straps arent really required, the whole reasoning behind them is for keeping walls square when structural sheathing isnt used. blocking however is a good touch

woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Laminate or vinyl on a concrete basement floor? pjpjpjpj Flooring 36 09-03-2012 01:37 PM
How does one repair small holes in a concrete floor? CnK of NY Flooring 2 08-30-2011 05:59 PM
Plywood sub floor over concrete slab targeted4u Flooring 9 07-10-2011 10:00 PM
Electrical Cable Run in Concrete Floor john curry Electrical 4 02-16-2010 04:54 PM
new concrete floor next to old concrete floor mattroos Building & Construction 10 08-28-2007 01:32 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.