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Old 10-02-2011, 07:37 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by grod777 View Post
That's what I figured. But I thought maybe they had it with a nice design or something. I could always use moulding on top for a nicer look. Or maybe in a lumber yard they have something better.
thats pretty much what gets done, you can put a round over on the edge thats seen, but most guys install a 1/2 thick by 1" wide bullnose on top of the skirt and then a 1/2" cove molding sits on top of that, the cove will hide any gaps in the skirtboard created by a wavey wall to which the skirtboard isnt flexible enough to follow


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Old 10-02-2011, 07:44 PM   #17
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yes 1" is more than enough for this. I somewhat agree with Ron about just pulling the stringer off the wall and attaching the skirt to the wall, then reattaching the stringer. It would mean you will not have to notch the new skirt around the existing stringer. This may be the best way for you.What I like to do, is to just leave that stringers in place. Take a rise and a run measurement for each step and lay this out on your piece of 1x12 skirtboard and notch it. This can be a little tricky to do properly, but if done right it should fit tight to your existing stringer. Next take a small piece of 3/4" material and hold it against the rough stringers as if it were a piece of riser and butt it up to the skirtboard. Scribe this 3/4" line off your skirtboard so that your riser will slide behind the skirtboard. Recut your skirtboard (riser lines only), and install your risers 1st. Then install your skirt. Now you can get a shingle behind the riser to make it tight to the skirt.
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:38 PM   #18
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Skirt board templet.
Stairway skirt board template - easy
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If you do what you've always done, you'll get what you've always got.

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Old 10-03-2011, 09:25 AM   #19
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Tread & riser cutting jig

Several folks have replied with help here so I won't repeat their recommendations. I do however want to share one tip that will help you when it's time to start cutting the treads and risers, especially if you're using the pricey oak treads off the shelf. This is one place you want really tight cuts against the skirt-board and nothing helps better than using a quick jig like the one shown in the video below. The jig gives you a perfect template that is exactly the right length and angle as each tread/riser may vary just enough to create a noticeable gap, especially if you plan on staining. I'd recommend cutting the treads on a compound sliding miter saw if you have access to one or else clamp a straight edge on your stock against the saw so that the blade follows the template mark on your tread stock. (Or else make sure you've got a really steady hand.) I keep a slightly different jig in my workshop for stair work, but this one is by far the easiest and cheapest site jig for really good results! Best of luck on your project! CL


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