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-   -   Installing Panel/Tile board as Dry Erase Board. Need Help. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/installing-panel-tile-board-dry-erase-board-need-help-154973/)

DrJLo 08-27-2012 07:06 AM

Installing Panel/Tile board as Dry Erase Board. Need Help.
 
I am trying to help install 1/8" melamine flat, white panel/tile board as a dry erase board. This past weekend, we attempted to install them against painted sheet rock using Liquid Nails Panel Board tubes. The school's AC was not on yet, and the boards started bowing out along the edges. We did have trouble getting some of the boards to adhere, period.

From what I have read, we need the AC on and let the boards acclimate. What I need help with is finding a better adhesive, or would this have worked better in an air conditioned room? Also, we didn't use any channels between the boards as we were going to try to butt them up against each other so as to make one wall of boards with 4 4x8 panels end to end. I guess the channels might have helped the boards from bowing?

Any help would be appreciated.

bob22 08-27-2012 02:07 PM

1. Do these boards work well as a long-term alternative to a real white/dry erase board?
if not,
2. I wouldn't permanently glue them to the wall as you'll have to remove to replace them. Perhaps glue them to a substrate that you affix to the wall with screws?

notmrjohn 08-27-2012 09:06 PM

bob, what do you mean by "real"? Many white boards sold are melamine. The realest is porcelain enamel on steel, that's about the only think that won't eventually show ghost writing.,
Now back to the problem. Doc, you should have let them and adhesive tubes acclimatize. And were the walls freshly painted instead of cured? Channels and edge moldings, securely fastened to wall, are a good idea. After you put your adhesive pattern on the wall, especially a continuous bead at edges, press the panel against wall, apply pressure all over it, rub with clean cloth, then pull it away from wall for a few minutes 5 is enuff, then press it back in place and rub hard, and rub and rub especially at edges till it adheres. That lets the adhesive act sort, of like contact cement. But that's all water under the bridge, or adhesive out of the tube.
What to do about the installed board is a big problem. you've probably tried rubbing it down i bet. If you're gonna take it down act now. You'll find that it did ahere in places, really adhered,usually way out in the center where you cant get a putty knife or anything behind it to pry with. I've had some luck with thin slats of wood or even a long narrow piece of paneling and jabbing it in between panel and wall. Even then I some panels. And there will prob. be chunks of the wall ripped off and chunks of panel still stuck and globs of adhesive on the wall and panel backs. Soften the globs witha hair dryer or heat gun set on lowest,be careful with a heat gun, scrape off glue with putty knife. Use an adhesive remover that says it will remove panel adhesive, wet cloth pad in it hold on glue then scrape. Repeat as needed..
You might be able to screw a wood frame over the board to the wall at the outside edges Thinner slats over joints. You pro'lly won't have studs behind any of those places, you might luck out since you used full 4X8 sheets. You'll have to use some sort of drywall anchor or hollow wall anchor. Molly bolts or even toggle bolts most likely with a head or washer big enuff head or washer to cover the hole you drilled. Prime and pre-paint the wood with ultra glossy white enamel then touch up and paint screw heads when installed.
Good luck.

DannyT 08-28-2012 08:18 AM

try loctite power grab works great and has a high initial tack.


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