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Old 12-04-2010, 12:27 AM   #16
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installing oak stair treads advice


Good point about the angle driver, I use a Dewalt impact with a very short bit but it can be tight.

Looking at your other post I see that you have winders, you cannot install winders the same way you install common treads- they will split if you glue them. You have to allow for seasonal wood movement. Place a good bead of adhesive on the walk-line only and lightly nail the rest. Here is a good place for the rabbet that mrgins talked about. There has to be room for expansion and contraction at both sides of the winder.

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Old 01-01-2011, 10:55 PM   #17
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installing oak stair treads advice


Ok, going forward. I have take all the advice u mentioned
Used adhesive on the walk line only and nailed everywhere. Coming out really Good.
Next question I have is with the treads. Some of the winders are deeper than the 12" so I need to add another triangle piece behind the tread.
Should I glue that joint together? I am not going to glue ends but want to keep the joint tight because it will be polyed and a space will show and look bad

Can I glue it?

Any other tips to keep the joint tight or fill in any gaps in that space?
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:06 PM   #18
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installing oak stair treads advice


Glue your treads up as a single board and then install. You must consider wood movement over 10". Here are a couple of links which discuss movement concerns. http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/...ent/#more-5162 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=54686
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:23 AM   #19
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installing oak stair treads advice


Thanks Keith.
Good artIcles. Your making me nervous now. I am not leaving any gaps in the stairs just doing the procedure mentioned. Am I gonna be ok? I'd hate to have treads split down the road. I don't want them to squeak either. How come on the straight normal treads u can glue everywhere but on the winders u can't?

Should I have left gaps? They just look unprofessional and an eye soar
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:41 AM   #20
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installing oak stair treads advice


Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mathewson View Post
Glue your treads up as a single board and then install. You must consider wood movement over 10". Here are a couple of links which discuss movement concerns. http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/...ent/#more-5162 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=54686
Keith, what is the average humidity in a lived in home in your area? I am just curious. Around here it runs about 50% most times. That was a good article, and I also had one customer who would run the heat up high for a week or two before doing the finish on the house, after trimming. There was no way to get the joints tight enough to stay in a situation and like you said, if someone was use to completely gluing a wide tread it would split, no doubt.
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:56 AM   #21
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installing oak stair treads advice


You don't want to leave gaps, you want to make provisions for movement. The wider the board the more it will move. There are a few ways to deal with that movement. If the riser is plowed and the tread has a rabbet then the tread can expand and contract within the plow without having a visible gap. A housed tread can expand and contract within the mortise. Another approach is to make treads which use MDO as a core and veneer 1/4 sawn wood on both sides. This reduces movement almost entirely.

A second consideration is what are the humidity swings in your area? JiJu1943 has smaller humidity swings than his area than I do in mine. Here is a link http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...s/fplrn268.pdf . If you are building stairs in Portland ME you have a different level of concern than if you are in Portland OR.

Turning the heat up to speed the drying process will increase the speed at which moisture content changes. Never something a carpenter wants to see...

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