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Old 08-24-2012, 12:16 AM   #1
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Installing locks on a standard slab interior door


I need to replace one side of a 72" wide double door. I am going to get a new 36" door but I need to hollow out a rectangular area for the strike plate.

What is the best way to hollow that section out?

I presume a Rotozip or a oscillating tool would help, but I don't have either one of these. I do have a regular drill and a Dremel, and wondering if those could work.

Also on another door, I have a strike plate that I believe might have been tempered with / pryed once and the screws are loose, When I put in new screws (even longer ones) the screws just spins. Is there any tricks in fixing these screw holes once they got too deep too big?

Push in a few wooden tooth picks? Feed in some wood filler?

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Old 08-24-2012, 04:52 AM   #2
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Installing locks on a standard slab interior door


A chisel and hammer work for me----that work is to delicate for a power tool ---

Your holes? glue in some tooth picks or wood splits.

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Old 08-24-2012, 06:53 AM   #3
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Installing locks on a standard slab interior door


Plunge router!
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:01 AM   #4
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Installing locks on a standard slab interior door


Bore the hole for the latch bolt and slide it into the hole. Mark around it with a sharp pencil, use a sharp chisle facing straight in with the tapered part toward the middle of the door to lay out the outline just a couple taps should do it. The use the chisle with the taper facing down to remove the material.
By hold the taper down it will give you more control of the depth.
I use a chisle the width of the latch plate for the whole job that way there's no steps.
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Old 08-24-2012, 01:54 PM   #5
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Installing locks on a standard slab interior door


I use a 5/8" drill and drill direct center of the strike plate where the door bolt latch strikes the jamb - or other door in your case.
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:58 PM   #6
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Installing locks on a standard slab interior door


joecaption sed "... slide it into the hole. Mark around it with a sharp pencil, use a sharp chisle facing straight in..." instead of the pencil sometimes, especially when my chisel isn't as sharp as it should be, I hold the plate real securely or even drill and counter sink the screw holes a bit and screw it down, then with a really sharp utility knife I carefully cut around the plate. Make several shallow passes instead of deep ones, careful when cutting with the grain, angle the knife leading edge a bit toward plate so it doesn't start off down some grain. Then remove plate and use chisel, I've even done the whole thing with a utility knife when the chisel wassss.... it was right there a minute ago!

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