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-   -   Installing Interior Doors - slab (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/installing-interior-doors-slab-29480/)

jkrodger 10-06-2008 02:50 PM

Installing Interior Doors - slab
 
Help! So, one of the joys of owning a 90 year old home is that everything seems to be custom. We wanted to replace the interior doors with new ones because most of them did not close properly but we didn't want to lose the beautiful trim around said doors. We ordered solid-core slab doors (couldn't order hinges or hardware pre-trimmed because it's different for different doors).

Anyways, we started on the first one, unfortunately it's probably one of the hardest because it's not a standard size. After using a belt sander to take off the ~1/2" to make it fit, we tried using a hinge template with a borrowed router and made a bit of a mess. Mostly we cut the hole a little too deep and a little too long. Not too bad, we used cardboard shims to bring the hinge flush with the rest of the door and I'll use wood filler to fill in the extra length that was cut.

Here's our problem, the door fits in the frame with room on all sides, it hangs on the new hinges in the existing slots in the frame. HOWEVER, the door only closes about 75% of the way before stopping!

It seems to be getting caught on the bottom part, top looks like it will clear the whole way. We've manually gone and tried to sand down but I don't think this will solve the problem.

buletbob 10-06-2008 03:41 PM

What bottom part !!! could you post a picture, we will be able to help you better. BOB.

DangerMouse 10-06-2008 04:05 PM

how did you cut it too long if you used a template? i use hammer/chisel for hinges. i think he means it catches on the floor bob. ?

DM

jkrodger 10-06-2008 05:33 PM

sorry, it's the bottom part of the door that's catching on the frame, from about the middle of the bottom hinge on down. The 6" above the bottom hinge was catching before the sanding.

I don't know how they cut too deep. It was my husband and his friend (that we borrowed the router from) that did it. We were using a template similar to this:
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/d...g/drinc17a.jpg
but after all the trouble we had, we went ahead and purchased the more expensive one, something like this:
http://www.coastaltool.com/a/port/images/59370.jpg

I'll try to take a picture later on, we're super busy finishing up some other projects around here too.

buletbob 10-06-2008 06:36 PM

practice on a scrap piece of wood to set the depth of the router. BOB

jkrodger 10-06-2008 06:49 PM

Thanks, yeah, I think we've learned that lesson the hard way. Lots of practice before the next door.

Any ideas on how to fix the current door? The depth of the mortise has been remedied with cardboard shims.

buletbob 10-06-2008 06:53 PM

I wood fill it with epoxy and sand or plane it back. I use the west systems epoxy. A little pricey but it can be worked in a few hours.

jkrodger 10-06-2008 10:11 PM

The depth of the mortise is no longer an issue, I used cardboard shims to bring the hinge flush to the door. The hinges hold strong in both the door and the frame, the problem we're having is that the door will not close all the way. It looks like the bottom part of the door, hinge side, is catching on the frame.

buletbob 10-07-2008 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkrodger (Post 169134)
The depth of the mortise is no longer an issue, I used cardboard shims to bring the hinge flush to the door. The hinges hold strong in both the door and the frame, the problem we're having is that the door will not close all the way. It looks like the bottom part of the door, hinge side, is catching on the frame.

Could you put a straight edge on the hinge side jamb leg to see if it is straight.? It must be pretty straight in order for the hinges to work properly. if it not we will have to talk you through the repair. BOB

Chagres 10-10-2008 10:42 AM

OK, this might sound simplistic, but do you still have the old door? Did it close properly? I know you said some of them didn't. If this old one didn't have the same problem, just compare the old one with the new one - it might give you a clue to the best solution. Hope this helps.

Chagres (Kelly)
http://www.icanfixupmyhome.com

bjbatlanta 10-10-2008 01:24 PM

Is it binding on the stop?? Pull the stop loose, move and re-nail. Just a thought........

S&S Custom Trim &Paint 10-10-2008 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkrodger (Post 169134)
The depth of the mortise is no longer an issue, I used cardboard shims to bring the hinge flush to the door. The hinges hold strong in both the door and the frame, the problem we're having is that the door will not close all the way. It looks like the bottom part of the door, hinge side, is catching on the frame.

If it is still catching on the frame,then the bottom mortise is still to deep and needs to be out further.Un less it is hitting the stop.These old houses are hard if you have not done a bunch. I did this before also.I had to re-drill my holes for the hinge forward a bit(on the door)so that it pulled away from the stop.I hope you understand what I mean.I am trying,it's hard to put into words.

jan 10-12-2008 06:27 AM

Look at the hinge leaves to see if you installed one or more of them backwards. The door won't close if the seams on the knuckles aren't facing each other.

tfb4me 10-13-2008 11:11 AM

it sounds to me the door is hitting the stop.Also I dont recomend cardboard shims.They promote movement and will fall apart over time,.Go get yourself some cedar shims from homer depot.

jkrodger 10-16-2008 09:37 AM

sorry I haven't responded in awhile, in-laws came for a visit last weekend and this project was put on hold for some serious cleaning and finishing up of some other projects.

I did check the level of both the door and the frame and both look to be good to go (which really surprised me, at least about the frame in the 90yo house). We've got more guests coming this weekend but I'll try to get pictures of the door to try to better show what's going on.


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