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Old 02-25-2013, 11:30 AM   #16
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Installing Chair Railing


Joe is right except for the knife.

Somebody actually single coated this seam, and did not even do the single coat right. The tape should not show. It should be fully bedded in with mud prepared as I stated in a previous post. That is done with a 6 inch knife. You squeeze all the excess mud out. That's why it has to be tempered with warm water and mixed with a paddle mixer, and why the tape has to be perforated. Subsequent coats are done with a 10, (min of 2) Some people use a 12 inch knife on non cupped seams. It actually looks like you have gloss or semi paint on the wall if you do you will probably need grabber, or some other primer prior to proceeding. A real hack did your walls. Sorry for that.

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Old 02-25-2013, 01:15 PM   #17
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Installing Chair Railing


Ok, it actually seems easier to fix a dip if it is the stud that is bowed than if the dip is in between studs. I will have to get ahold of that straight edge and stud finder first to see which case I have. Tomorrow.

Would it be easier to float the wall? Basically you are skim coating the wall, correct? Is it possible to just float it where the dips are at chair rail height?

Haha hack..that made me laugh. I know you are right though. Screw it though, it's done, I will fix them! Or at least try to learn how to.

I have a 6 inch and a 10 inch blade in the house. I can get my hands on a 12 though if need be. I have the Sheetrock Brand All Purpose Joint Compound (green lid). I realize the hackers didn't do the first coat right but can I fix this hack job with what I have? Please don't say I have to cut that tape out and redo .

Last edited by MsKitty32; 02-25-2013 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:31 AM   #18
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Installing Chair Railing


if you place an identifying line where the chair goes. pull the mud from that spot downward and then pull upward. kind of spread the mud outward either direction from the chair rail spot. you only need to go a foot or so outward from top and bottom most likely.if you are good you can get the same consistency with a smaller knife but it happens with less pulls using a larger knife, or even put the mud on with the small knife and then use the large knife to float it out. because you have such shiny walls (gloss paint)probably want to prime the wall first where the mud goes, any primer should do.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:41 AM   #19
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Installing Chair Railing


Take a straight edge and hold it horizontally over the joint. It can be the edge of your level, etc. If the existing tape is below, you are good. You may want to prime the walls just so the mud grips well though. If it is flat paint, no need, if glossy or semi, better prime. Make sure you temper that mud though. It makes all the difference in the world.
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:54 PM   #20
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Installing Chair Railing


This particular seam is below the straight edge. I do have one on the opposite wall however that is not below the straight edge..bleh. Do I have this right - if the tape is below the straight edge then I have room to fill the dip without making the seam look bulged? The seam that isn't below the dip I couldn't fix by just adding mud because it would appear to bulge out?

Is temper mixing warm water in the mud? I don't have a paddle mixer. What consistency should the mud be after I add and mix the water into the mud? Why does tempering make all the difference? Just curious.

Yes, the walls were painted with a semi-gloss...bleh. I will def primer with the Zinsser 123 before I do any mudding. I plan on using a paint with an eggshell sheen so hopefully this helps hide the hackness ha.


Last edited by MsKitty32; 02-26-2013 at 06:39 PM.
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