Ideas on ceiling (not conventional)

jackpine

I have our ceiling opened up to the upstairs floor joist and we were planning on putting up some tongue and groove paneling or just sheet rock it. But now I am thinking of trying something else. I have seen some of what I am going to explain, but I don't know the terminology and need some help.

What I have in mind is paneling or planks that do not have a groove or gap exposed with a grid like frame extending down about 3 to 4 inches. The paneling inside the grid would be something like 3x5 feet or similar to that. Possibly even 4x8, so that the paneling could be something as easy as plywood.

Does anyone here know what this style is called and what kind of material I can use for the paneling and the framework of grids? I searched for some photos but can only find the framework with sheet rock instead of wood.

joecaption

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...ures&FORM=IGRE

Like that?

A whole lot of work and extra money but it's not as complacated as you might think to do.

How it well looks will depend on what style house you have and how high your ceilings are.

jackpine

Exactly! Coffered ceiling. I knew it had a name. I am up for the extra work, I hope the extra money is not too much over the top. I agree a higher ceiling would look best but ours is normal height. Now I know the name I can search.

joecaption

Not the best look for just an 8' ceiling. Really makes the room look smaller.
Some nice medium sized crown moulding would look a whole lot better.

If you do insist on still doing it concider just making it 5-1/2" wide but only 3-1/2" deep.
Do you have a table saw and a compound mitre saw, and a pneumatic finish nail gun?

sdsester

I agree and it may look out of place depending on the floorplan of the room as well. When combined with 8' ceilings it could end up out of scale and clunky looking.

Unless you really want to measure and cut all the angles, look online for companies that factory build such ceilings RTA (ready to assemble). I did a couple this way and they turned out great and saved oodles. Obviously you have to measure very carefully and not just on the edges of the ceiling. The sites will instruct you how. A finish nail gun will come in handy.

What about crown as Joe suggests and some tin or faux tin panels? You can get them now in all sorts of historic and contemporary patterns. They would not effect ceiling height---real or perceived---so much. You can get real tin, copper or other metal and leave it natural or paint it. There are molded materials in colors that do not require painting. There are panels ready to paint. Obviously the faux stuff is much cheaper than metal. And the end of the day it is faux stuff though. Most may not notice with a nice paint job. Here is an image of a snap together faux metal ceiling that is not painted.



Remember you need to (or should) put up some fire rated material for the ceiling I should think. Especially if the attic is on the other side of it.

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jackpine

Yes, I have all the tools. 3' deep or so would be fine, and I agree shallower would be better with a regular height ceiling.

jackpine

We are still not positive what we do, I want wood ceiling but really don't want the tongue and groove. Prefer a smooth finish.

ratherbefishing

I have always liked the look of the tin ceilings, myself. But, if you want coffered, and don't have the height, how about using 1x4s flat against the ceiling? You could run a router on the edge for an interesting profile. You might get the look you want, and only lose 3/4" of height.

sdsester

I've not used this company's system but here is another possibility for you to explore. I saw it advertised on this site.

http://www.woodtracbysauder.com/?gcl...FUjrKgodrwQAug

Sauder is pretty well know for RTA office furniture. I suspect their ceiling system would work but, again, I have no experience with it.

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GBrackins

what is the height from your finish floor to existing finish ceiling?

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Gary

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jackpine

Ceiling is not finished, I removed the tiles. From current floor, which will be changed down the line, to the bottom of the upstairs floor joists is 8 feet I believe. Or maybe a half inch or so higher.

DangerMouse

My $40 (300 sq. ft.) Homemade Birch/Walnut Ceiling

There are other options as well!

DM

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GBrackins

I asked because Section R305 of the 2009 International Residential Code (IRC is the basis of most local and state building codes, yours may differ) require a minimum of 7-feet clear height. just wanted to make sure you were away in case you need a building permit and inspection. Check with your building department to confirm this requirement.

see this link for the code http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...?bu2=undefined

SECTION R305 CEILING HEIGHT

R305.1 Minimum height. Habitable space, hallways, bathrooms, toilet rooms, laundry rooms and portions of basements containing these spaces shall have a ceiling height of not less than 7 feet (2134 mm).

Exceptions:

1. For rooms with sloped ceilings, at least 50 percent of the required floor area of the room must have a ceiling height of at least 7 feet (2134 mm) and no portion of the required floor area may have a ceiling height of less than 5 feet (1524 mm). 2. Bathrooms shall have a minimum ceiling height of 6 feet 8 inches (2032 mm) at the center of the front clearance area for fixtures as shown in Figure R307.1. The ceiling height above fixtures shall be such that the fixture is capable of being used for its intended purpose. A shower or tub equipped with a showerhead shall have a minimum ceiling height of 6 feet 8 inches (2032 mm) above a minimum area 30 inches (762 mm) by 30 inches (762 mm) at the showerhead. R305.1.1 Basements. Portions of basements that do not contain habitable space, hallways, bathrooms, toilet rooms and laundry rooms shall have a ceiling height of not less than 6 feet 8 inches (2032 mm).

Exception: Beams, girders, ducts or other obstructions may project to within 6 feet 4 inches (1931 mm) of the finished floor.

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Gary

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jackpine

Thank you for your concern, but my question didn't pertain to any code questions, I was asking about terminology and product ideas. Are you the sites code copper?

GBrackins

I thought your question had been answered by joecaption.

Codes are something that most posters on here never think about, and can be an issue that can sink their projects. I've seen building officials make people tear out non-compliant construction. Hate to see people have issues on things they were not aware of.

If my post was an infringement, I apologize.

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Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"