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mobiledynamics 07-13-2012 02:39 PM

How would you patch a door skin
Standard 1 3/8 door
Used Soss Hinges that literally - the body of the hinge is almost the entire width of the door minus the skins. Routed out for the hinges...and door skin being thin, some pieces got torn on the process.

I'm inclined to take a fein.....and cut a larger piece of the skin out (where the hinge is) and just readypatch it.
I've gotta think about this for a bit cause I still need to create a *sharp* edge when I patch and sand to make that door edge square.

Thoughts, suggestions, what other way would you do this.

mae-ling 07-13-2012 04:01 PM

Can you post a pic?
Depends on how much damage.
May just skim what is tore out.

kj6887 07-13-2012 06:44 PM

I assume it is going to be painted. If so then I would used Bondo leave the hinge in, fill, let harden, remove hinge and sand carefully with orbital. This has worked for me in the past.

joecaption 07-13-2012 09:50 PM

A whole new slab hollow core door is about $25.00.

mobiledynamics 07-14-2012 08:31 PM

Doesn't solve the problem that the hinge is still almost the size of the door width.....just short of me buying commercial slabs....but I've got these damm slabs all mortised out already...

Bondo is going to be tough after review. The majority of the tearout is only about 3" W x 1/16-1'8H high x skin depth. The issue is in this area...the *inside hinge* that is inside the slab rotates. By using bondo....I may set that hinge with no room to move.

Hinge here..


Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 965177)
A whole new slab hollow core door is about $25.00.

joecaption 07-15-2012 12:34 AM

What would make you think of using that style hindge on a slab door?
Just wondering.

mobiledynamics 07-15-2012 05:57 AM

For the simple reason I have a bank of doors I want with hidden hinges

mobiledynamics 07-15-2012 09:56 PM

This patching of the area is proving quite difficult as I suspected. No backing....tough to get the area patched.

Has anyone removed the skin off the slab..
I'm inclined to explore removing a *sectional piece* - sorta like doing spot surgery - then picking up veneer to place back the section I cut ---but this piece will also have a straight edge that will also fill up the small missing chunk I am missing where the skin is missing from the hinge.

It's paint grade doors so I'm all okay on how much the *top will blend in*. I just want the front/side edges of the door to be straight and no wood missing free...

woody4249 07-17-2012 12:31 PM

Options I see

Use a smaller SOS Hinge
Bondo the skin face and paint
Use an 1/8" door skin and cover it
Get a new door and use a better jig when routing


mobiledynamics 07-17-2012 06:49 PM

The Hinge used was the smallest they made and it was speced for minimum, 1 3/8 door.

It's not the jig.

I ended up routing out the area, ripping some wood as the skin, bondo and then sanding.

Could not bondo the affected area. No backing for it, the hinge mechanisim was there, etc, etc.

Hinges were Sugatsune...which I went with as it had 3 way adjustments on them

jschaben 07-17-2012 07:13 PM

I think I would be inclined to mortice out the whole area inside the skin and make a plug from pine.. ( I have used a chunk of 2x4) slip it in the mortice and glue it in. Do repairs to the skin and start over on the hinge mortise. I've had to do this before. Tried installing a hollow core door for my son and DIL. Went to put in the door knob and found they had bought doors for a closet bifold setup with no internal blocking for locksets:censored:

Anyway, I looked over the installation pdf and it looked like you should have had plenty of room......unless...... you accidentally switched the door mortise and the jamb mortise templates. The jamb mortise looks to be a couple millimeters wider and would put you very close to the skins.

Here's a link to some that will install in 1" minimum thickness doors.
If you have already sprung for a bunch of those pricey little devils, I doubt you will get to enthused about these though.
Good Luck:)

mobiledynamics 07-17-2012 07:41 PM

Yeah. All hung and mortised.

If I was building these on a bench with jambs, Soss would be inexpensive and do the trick.

I'm doing this ad-hoc remodel - jambs in place. Once you're off a mm....the install just looks like poop.
So I went with the Sugatsunes due to adjustability....and they do work !

When I ordered them 2 months ago, the VES160 was the smallest one they make.
They NOW make even a smaller one. Go figure ;-/

If you dry fit/hold the hinge to the width of the door, you can easily see how the body is literally skin to skin.
It is what it is. Had I not gotten so knee deep, I would have just went and bough commercial thick slabs...

woody4249 07-18-2012 08:14 AM

When you say........"It's not a jig" may be misunderstanding my terminology.

When routing out something as precise as a SOS hinge it is essential to use a "Jig" or "Template" to guide the router. Before these adjustable ones came out you had to be "Crack on" with all three hinges or you'd be SOL with your SOS.

Trying to align 6 mortice ports and doing it without a jig is tempting fate.
Experience has taught me to spend the time in set up and make one template to do all 6 mortices from the same jig.
Start by making a master template and use this to cut the three you will use on the jig that you can position on the jamb and the door edge. A piece of 1/2" plywood equal to the door jamb width and door height can be used here.

A router with a guide like these from Harbor Freight work well with the use of two different bits, one for the mortice and one for the hinge face recess.


mobiledynamics 07-18-2012 08:29 AM

Understood. We are on the same wavelength.
I was saying my Jig was not the issue.

It's the fact that the body of the hinge is literally all the meat of the door (less the skin). I'll try to grab a pic when I can. It is what is is.....just due to timing, decision on proceeding ahead instead of buying a thicker slab door., etc.

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