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RxScram 11-09-2009 04:55 PM

How to transition from door casing to baseboard?
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hi Everybody,

I have recently installed casing around all the doors and closets in the house. We would like to install matching baseboard to complete the look. My question is this- how would you recommend transitioning from the casing to the baseboard so that there is not a wierd edge on all of the transitions.

We are using delmar casing (3" tall) and baseboard (4 1/2" tall), and apparently I installed the casing incorrectly, with the fat side facing the door instead of the other way around. I have thought about simply doing a miter on the bottoms, but that would mean I would have to use the 3" casing to do all of the baseboards, which I don't really want.

I am attaching a (very rough) model of the trim, so that you can tell the general profile.

Thanks!

bob22 11-09-2009 05:21 PM

IMO, I would take off the door molding and reinstall the other way. I see no other way.

jaros bros. 11-09-2009 07:22 PM

Plinth blocks or redo.

RobQuillin 11-09-2009 07:26 PM

You really got yourself in a pickle. You really only have 2 options. My first recommendation is for you to take off the casing and reinstall it properly. That is the only way that you are going to get a proper look. If you decide that this is something that you do not want to do then you can try this other option and see if it is something that you can live with. in this option you will need a good miter saw that can do a miter through the entire width of the base board.

You are going to want to cut a 22.5 degree bevel on the end of the baseboard and glue another piece of base cut with a 22.5 degree bevel going the opposite way. On this piece you will also want a 45 degree bevel going the opposite way of the the 22.5 bevel. Both bevles on this piece need to meet at the short point on the back. This way when you glue it to the other baseboard it will look as though the baseboard just turns back into the wall at a 45 degree angle.

Once you do this you will want to measure the thickness of the door casing on the edge that is going to meet up with the baseboard. Once you have this thickness you can cut the bevel of the baseboard to match that thickness. That way it will look like the baseboard just bevels down and into the edge of the casing.

I hope that I didn't loose you. Like I said though, you would be better off reinstalling the casing. Good luck.

Augie Dog 11-09-2009 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaros bros. (Post 351176)
Plinth blocks or redo.

The plinth block idea is the easiest way without removing the casing.

Do a google search on them and see if you can live with that look. Or take it off and redo it properly. I know it hurts to even think about tearing it off but it would look correct forever.

RobQuillin 11-10-2009 06:37 AM

I had a brain fart and totally forgot abut plinth blocks. That is the easiest way.

MI-Roger 11-10-2009 07:00 AM

Remove the casing, then install new casing correctly
 
Everyone who sees the casing in its current configuration will immediately know the mistake you made.

Remember - two wrongs don't make a right

Anything other than installing the casing correctly will just be "putting lipstick on a pig" in an unsuccessful attempt to hide your previous error.

trosenda 11-10-2009 10:26 PM

I agree with MI-Roger. You're going to look like a dork showing off you DIY job to your friends if the casing is installed backwards. Not to mention if I was a potential buyer of your house and I saw that backwards casing, I would run because I would wonder what other funny DIY tricks were hidden.

Just tear it down and start over. Sure it will cost you a few buck but we've all had to pay for our mistakes before. I've done things much worse and much more expensive than what you describe here. You'll be happier in the end when it looks right.

MI-Roger 11-11-2009 06:43 PM

My earlier response may have been a little harsh.....
 
Plinth blocks can work, BUT........................

In anything other than an artistic or contemporary dwelling they will look out of place making the whole job even worse than it is now. Plinth blocks are usually considered a traditional design element.

There may not be any setting where plinth blocks with reversed casing will look appropriate. But $5 for two plinth blocks to experiment with the look may not be a waste of money.

Best of luck!

Timberratt 11-12-2009 05:37 AM

Standing trim and running trim are not supposed to mitre together, turn your standing trim the correct way.

Skuce 11-13-2009 09:58 PM

Plinth Block for sure.


example:

http://www.smithtrim.com/Brodia_baseboard.JPG

Scuba_Dave 11-13-2009 10:07 PM

Yeah, take the casing off & put them on the right way, use the plinth blocks to make-up for what you will need to cut off
You can use them top & bottom if needed
But hopefully you just need them at the bottom

RxScram 11-13-2009 11:10 PM

Hi Everybody,

Thanks for all the feedback. It seems to be a fairly universal opinion that I will need to redo the trim. Cutting the existing trim and using plinth blocks to make up the difference seems like an economical idea, better than having to buy all the trim over again.

Lots to think about!
RxScram


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