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-   -   How to repair this old wooden door (Picture Included)? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/how-repair-old-wooden-door-picture-included-156564/)

ohman 09-11-2012 10:20 PM

How to repair this old wooden door (Picture Included)?
 
Dear all, thanks for reading...

My wife was trying to enter the house the other day but the door was stuck, so she forcefully push the door and damaged the door (see photo below, click to zoom in):

http://s15.postimage.org/yp87j4hqv/DSC_0791.jpg

Just wondering for this type of damage, what's the best way to repair it? Would some type of monster glue or super-glue for wood be good enough?? A handyman friend of ours said that he saw something like a metal U-shaped thingy before that you can use for this type of repair, does anyone know what that's called, where to find it, and whether that's the best way to repair it?? Thanks so much! :bangin:

joecaption 09-11-2012 10:31 PM

#1 Figure out why the door was sticking and fix that or any repair is going to fail.

Just squart some Tite Bond II glue in the crack and clamp it.
When Tite Bond sets up it's stronger the the org. wood.

I know what he's talking about and any Lowes or HD has them in the same area the door knobs are sold but I do not see them working with that old style lock.

ohman 09-12-2012 01:12 AM

Thanks. I just went to amazon.com and found that the top selling (actually #2 selling) wood glue isTitebond III (with 5 stars review)...
Just curious, what's the differences between Titebond III and Titebond II?? Which one would be better for this type of repair? Thanks!

kwikfishron 09-12-2012 05:52 AM

Titebond III is waterproof the Titebond II is just water resistant. Be sure to take that plate off so you can glue up the entire crack.

joecaption 09-12-2012 07:19 AM

It would be best to remove the door and lay it on it's side and let gravaty to it's thing when apply the glue.

7echo 09-12-2012 08:31 AM

I would take the door down, remove the hardware from the affected area, pry open the crack a little and put the glue in. Probably use a few little wedges to keep the crack open a while so the glue can get as far into the crack as possible. Setting the door so gravity helps, as Joe mentioned, is a good idea. Clamp it up, use some wax paper between the clamps and door, and wipe up excess glue from any finished areas before it cures.

notmrjohn 09-12-2012 05:15 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Don't over clamp and squeeze out all the glue. Put some 1X's in between clamps and7's paper. Wipe off glue squeeze out with damp cloth before it sets. wipe off any wax with mineral spirits if you do any refinishing in that area, otherwise just polish it in.
Door reinforcement plates, U shaped thingies, come in lots of finishes, lots of sizes, lots of hole arrangements, some have no holes you make your own. They are designed to prevent kick ins, but i suspect more are sold to make repairs after a kick in.
Seems like, unless I get there first, i am always repeating joe. "#1 Figure out why the door was sticking and fix that or any repair is going to fail." brilliant man that joe. If the problem is solved by planing that edge of door, try a bit of gentle planing before gluing. I don't think I've ever hand planed TiteBond 3. I do no that TB3 and 2 glue lines can play havoc with surface planer blades, especially if I was careless in wiping or scraping squeeze out. After gluing sanding that area might be best. Then stain and finish.
If you take the door down its a good time to make sure that top and bottom are sealed. Nobody ever seems to say anything about sloshing some finish into lock mortises or holes, but...
Mrs ohman is a wonderful woman, you are lucky to have her, I worship the ground she walks on. (i don't wanta upset her in the least and have her forcefully pushin on me, might damage my lock set)
the main difference between Tite Bond 3 and 2 that I see here is that 3 is thicker and may not seep down into cracks where they get narrow, the gravity and wedging will help, you can thin it with just a few drops of water, sez here "up to 5% by weight or volume"... eh, a few drops. I think they picked the 5% cause its same key, easier to type.And it sez here the set up and dry times and such so read the label. Water proof, I wouldn't build a boat with it, but for most purposes yeah, lot more water resistant than 2, if either is nicely varnished theyll do this job. poor ol 1 don't stand a chance. 3's a bit stronger, has longer open time for adjusting fit, costs a bit more. I'd probably choose 2 for this cause its runnier, they're both excellent all around wood glues, and you should get one of them anyway. I kinda miss that smiling bull though. Is his lil boy still on the school paste jar?

ohman 09-12-2012 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1008267)
It would be best to remove the door and lay it on it's side and let gravaty to it's thing when apply the glue.

I hope I can do that too, but the door is SUPER heavy so I don't know if I can DIY to remove the door myself (might have trouble to put it back on later...:laughing:) Thanks for everyone's help!!

joecaption 09-12-2012 11:02 PM

To remove the door make sure it's shut first. Remove the bottom pin first then the middle last the top.

Now just unlatch it and pull it out from the latch side first.

To reinstall only takes one person. I put a lhindge pin in my top shirt pocket then Just set the door up on the threshold flat againt the opening Keep your body putting slight pressure againt the door and use you free hand to line up the top hinge first. Once it's almost there set the pin in the hole and wiggle the door until the pin drops.

notmrjohn 09-13-2012 09:03 AM

Tap all pins loose before starting, they can get stiff and "locked in" by finishes or gunked lubricants. It can get kinda scary, or at least you'll find yourself in awkward positions making for inefficient pin whacking, when you've got all but top pin of heavy door out and your trying to keep bottom hinge side corner in place, so as not bind top hinge , and give that top pin a hefty whack. Clean the pins and hinge barrells of any old sticky lubricant while its all apart, a small drop of light weight oil like sewing machine oil on pin will help it drop. A dropper to hold and install pins while you hold and wiggle door also is even easier.

BigJim 09-13-2012 11:41 AM

You may want to check the hinges to see how much slop they have, that could be the cause of the door sticking.

Michael Ellgren 09-14-2012 01:47 AM

Hello friends,

Old wooden doors can provide a rich natural beauty and unique design to complement the decor of your home. These older doors are often more elaborate than new doors, and may even be more well-constructed. When you also consider the high price tag on a new wooden door, refinishing or restoring an older door can be the most practical option for many homeowners. This project can be completed in just a few days, leaving your door with a like-new finish.

Thanks and Regards
Michael Ellgren

SeniorSitizen 09-14-2012 07:42 AM

The secret for a successful repair of that type is to get the entire surface glued and no special glue is needed other than Elmer's. If you don't have Elmer's in the house you ain't much of a DIY,er. :laughing: The way to apply glue to the entire surface is to wedge the split open and use a small string to draw the glue completely through. Take your time an make sure as much glue is on all surfaces as is humanly possible and lightly clamp as not to squeeze too much glue out.

notmrjohn 09-14-2012 10:35 AM

Elmer, the happy bull,makes a good general purpose all around glue and everybody should have a bottle in the catch all drawer. But he's been pretty much superseded by TiteBond, which is not some esoteric special glue. He hasn't quite been put out to pasture and he's come out with glues to directly challenge TB, but every magazine test I've seen, personal experience, and just about every one i know prefers TiteBond. Old loyalties die slowly, and Elmer still has his corner on my shelf. Elmer comes in smaller bottles, some pocket or purse size so you can keep him handy, a bottle in every kitchen and a jug in every garage! That's my slogan, friends! A vote for me... oh, sorry. But i think the votes here are for TB III. If a store has Elmers it has TiteBond, 'cept for supermarket and dime store, some of them have TB. If twas me I'd use TB3 on a door. For most house hold kwik fixes I'd go with 2, bit runnier for gettin into places, sets up kwiker when you're hand clamping a small piece.
What's that you say? Dimestore? That's a place we used to go to buy dimes. Rich kids went to the Five and Dime and lorded it over us with their shiny new store bought 15 cents. We'd give 'um a swift kick in the lock set to put um back in there place.

creeper 09-14-2012 12:00 PM

:wink:Methinks somebody's been sniffing too much glue



the new guy cracks me up. :lol:


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