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Old 07-24-2010, 11:00 AM   #1
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How to Miter Cut Exterior Trim Board


Bought some Azek trim boards to go on the projecting end of a gable. Just underneath the shingle overhang. Question is, how do I make the measure miter cut for the angle at the peak and down by the gutters? Pic attached.
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Old 07-24-2010, 11:24 AM   #2
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How to Miter Cut Exterior Trim Board


Both angles will be the same as your plumb cut on your rafters.

Jim

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Old 07-24-2010, 11:34 AM   #3
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How to Miter Cut Exterior Trim Board


Take a framing square and a level and at the edge of the roof level the horizontal leg of the square and then use the square to get your rise and run. Get the longest measurement that you can before one of the legs comes off the roof to get the most accurate pitch. It should be a standard pitch - looks like 3/12 to me.
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Old 07-24-2010, 12:47 PM   #4
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How to Miter Cut Exterior Trim Board


sliding bevel gauge will do that,make sure you glue the azek joints with the specified pvc cement

why is the tyvek not wrapped around the corners properly?

that gable vent should be flashed just like the windows

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Old 07-24-2010, 02:55 PM   #5
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sliding bevel gauge will do that,make sure you glue
why is the tyvek not wrapped around the corners properly?
Sorry outdated pic. Here is the latest. Still need to get a new gable vent and window frame for upper right (someone tried to elegantly slam the window in to place )
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Old 07-24-2010, 06:39 PM   #6
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ok looking good
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Old 07-24-2010, 07:09 PM   #7
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Now thatís some good looking Tyvek.

You could have lined up the letters on the lower right a little better though.
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:03 PM   #8
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How to Miter Cut Exterior Trim Board


Isnt the tyvek supposed to wrap inside window openings on both sides and bottom of windows?? and over the nailing flashing on top??? loks like windowswere installed and caulked in then tyveked up to sides and over bottom tyvek that was wrapped as windows were installed.

Using butyl sticky wrap how do you keep the bottom windows corners flat?? I cant stretch it out and cutting it leaves a gap. Wrapping inside bottom sill and trying to get to outside flat siding surface,,,90* turn. Do all of you use a preformed pan for this???
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:33 PM   #9
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no
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:57 PM   #10
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How to Miter Cut Exterior Trim Board


That is a 4/12 cut or 18-1/2*. 4" rise per 12" horizontal.

Good: http://www.napleslumber.com/catalogs/HTyvek-81994.pdf

Better: http://www.bostoncedar.com/pdfs/Typa...stallation.pdf

Best: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-...x?nterms=63740

Gable vents: pp. 606: http://books.google.com/books?id=Z8a...0vents&f=false


Be safe, Gary
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Old 07-25-2010, 04:21 PM   #11
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Isnt the tyvek supposed to wrap inside window openings on both sides and bottom of windows?? and over the nailing flashing on top??? loks like windowswere installed and caulked in then tyveked up to sides and over bottom tyvek that was wrapped as windows were installed.

Using butyl sticky wrap how do you keep the bottom windows corners flat?? I cant stretch it out and cutting it leaves a gap. Wrapping inside bottom sill and trying to get to outside flat siding surface,,,90* turn. Do all of you use a preformed pan for this???
You can do it either way. Tyvek has instructions for both installing windows before and after WRB. I was going to housewrap first, but someone made the argument that if water gets behind the housewrap, it will leak through the windows (because I caulked and flashed over the housewrap) and I won't know where the water is coming from. Since I bought the house a few months ago and my first discovery was water damage, I errd on the side of caution and backcaulked and flashed the window directly to the plywood. Just a little added protection

The sticky wrap I went with is Tyvek Flexwrap. Really cool product. It flexes into the corners of the sill. I didn't use a back dam or anything behind it on the sill, which I kind of am wishing I did. But I think it will be ok. If I did it over again, I would leave some extra room in the rough opening to use a sill pan or slanted piece of wood to make sure if water did get in, that it would find it's way out. Still very new at this. If you have the option of sill pans, do it. Some might think overkill, but the repair of water damage is not fun.

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