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Old 10-16-2010, 08:34 AM   #1
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How to install a door?


Hello,

So I run out of carpenters, which I realize is just the universe telling me to muster up my courage and do this myself.

I have an old french door hung in a new jamb in an even older house. The vertical sides of the jamb are made from 1 x 6 (as the opening is framed in what used to be the exterior wall of the house, accounting for its atypical width). Now it's time to put up the door stop and case the frame.

Regular 5/16 x 1 doorstop is not sufficient to cover the gap between the door and the jamb.

I bought 1 x 4 fingerjoint pine, which frankly is thicker than I had wanted and I don't have a planer. But I was hoping that the size would be esthetically appropriate given the large size of the door (34" x 80") and the depth of the frame.

The carpenter who instarlled the jamb added slivers of wood, going from nothing to ", to the edge of the jamb because the walls were not flush with the jamb edge (for casing purposes). This however is going to show up when I put on the door stop (unless I rip the door stop at the same slight angle that the jamb is).

So my question is this:

When I install the door stop, do I miter the corners (I'm wondering if this will be problematic given the nonexistent flush/square/plumb factor in an old house) or do I butt them together?

If I butt them together, is it always the rule that you put the top piece up first and then the vertical pieces (as if they were bearing a load) even when there is no "load"?

Will it look stupid to have 4" (which are really 3 ") stops inside a 6" jamb (as opposed to the normal 1 " material) and therefore should I rip them to be more narrow?

Do I install the stops straight or do I impose the same slight angle on the stops to reflect the slivers that have been added to the edge of the jamb [by the way, the slivers are irregular; in others words, they are at the top left and bottom right of the interior edge of the jambs]?

So I guess I should get through this part and then I will ask you why my door swings closed on its own (I think that has something to do with the hinges and squareness but I haven't figured out the science of which way what needs to go to fix it yet.).

Thank you kindly for reading through all of this. I apologize for adding so much detail but I'm not smart enough about these things to jump to conclusions on the details. I need step by step.

Gratefully yours,
Karen
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:51 AM   #2
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How to install a door?


That is a lot of information but still it is a little hard to see all of your problems. Is there a way you can take a few pictures of the slivers and such so we can see exactly how to help?

As for your door swinging by itself there is something out of plumb, either the jamb or the wall is. You can stop the free swinging if you will take your hinge pins out and lay them on a surface that will not dent or be damaged, take a hammer and hit the pin in the middle which will bend it. Once the pin is bent drive it back in and the friction from the bent pins will keep your door open. By the way, don't hit the pin like you are driving a 12 penny nail home, you just want to bend it slightly.

One more question, are you sure that is a 34 inch door? A 34 inch door is either a special made door or a cut down 36 inch as a 34 inch door is an odd size (2/10)
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:56 AM   #3
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How to install a door?


Well, you were right, I double checked and I had been remembering the dimensions of the exterior door, not the French door ~ it is 32 x 80.

Unfortunately, I am stuck with dial-up and no digital camera. So I've attached a drawing as best I can represent the vertical aspect of the jamb. Add to that, the top (horizontal) part of the jamb also has a sliver added to it ~ going from on the left to 0 on the right. The strike plate and hinge pockets are on the exterior (mudroom) side and the slivers are on the interior (kitchen) side of the jamb.

Oh, and the width of the jamb is 6.5", not 6.

Does that help any? Sorry about no picture!


Sincerely,
Karen

Okay, so I clicked on the "attach" icon and it won't let me attach my diagram. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:59 AM   #4
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How to install a door?


Okay, I got the attachment.

Seems I'm better with computers than I am with door jambs.
Attached Files
File Type: doc Door jamb diagram.doc (25.5 KB, 75 views)
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:37 PM   #5
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How to install a door?


Quote:
Originally Posted by karen_b View Post
Hello,

So I run out of carpenters, which I realize is just the universe telling me to muster up my courage and do this myself.

I have an old french door hung in a new jamb in an even older house. The vertical sides of the jamb are made from 1 x 6 (as the opening is framed in what used to be the exterior wall of the house, accounting for its atypical width). Now it's time to put up the door stop and case the frame.

Regular 5/16 x 1 doorstop is not sufficient to cover the gap between the door and the jamb.

I bought 1 x 4 fingerjoint pine, which frankly is thicker than I had wanted and I don't have a planer. But I was hoping that the size would be esthetically appropriate given the large size of the door (34" x 80") and the depth of the frame.

The carpenter who instarlled the jamb added slivers of wood, going from nothing to ", to the edge of the jamb because the walls were not flush with the jamb edge (for casing purposes). This however is going to show up when I put on the door stop (unless I rip the door stop at the same slight angle that the jamb is).

So my question is this:

When I install the door stop, do I miter the corners (I'm wondering if this will be problematic given the nonexistent flush/square/plumb factor in an old house) or do I butt them together?

Yes they butt.

If I butt them together, is it always the rule that you put the top piece up first and then the vertical pieces (as if they were bearing a load) even when there is no "load"?

Yes, usually the header piece goes up first.

Will it look stupid to have 4" (which are really 3 ") stops inside a 6" jamb (as opposed to the normal 1 " material) and therefore should I rip them to be more narrow?

One problem with the thicker door stop will be your fingers will hit it when turning your door knob.

Do I install the stops straight or do I impose the same slight angle on the stops to reflect the slivers that have been added to the edge of the jamb [by the way, the slivers are irregular; in others words, they are at the top left and bottom right of the interior edge of the jambs]?

Either way you go it is going to show, either with the difference in width of the door stop or running the stop with the door.

So I guess I should get through this part and then I will ask you why my door swings closed on its own (I think that has something to do with the hinges and squareness but I haven't figured out the science of which way what needs to go to fix it yet.).

Thank you kindly for reading through all of this. I apologize for adding so much detail but I'm not smart enough about these things to jump to conclusions on the details. I need step by step.

Gratefully yours,
Karen
I hope this is of some help.
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Last edited by BigJim; 10-16-2010 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 10-17-2010, 06:13 PM   #6
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How to install a door?


for your door stops, the only thing that matters is that they actually stop your door! what i mean by that is, whether they follow the "slivers" or not, you'll want to install them gently snug against the door when it is closed in the latch.

i wouldn't put up 1X4. i think that would look goofy.if you have access to a table saw, i would rip the 1X4 in half, then i would "resaw" it to about 1/2" thick, or up to 5/8" if you need it to close a bigger gap.

Last edited by wombosi; 10-17-2010 at 06:15 PM.
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