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montydog 05-17-2013 07:32 PM

how to fix this sliding door trim without replacing it?
1 Attachment(s)
Hi there
The bottom of the jamb on this sliding door got wet this winter and swole right up. Any suggestions on how to repair this without pulling all the trim off?

Many thanks!

Attachment 71035

joecaption 05-17-2013 07:53 PM

Sure looks like MDF which never should have been used on an exterier door, and the threshold is even with whatever is on the outside of the door which is always going to be a cause of wall and trim rotting.

If it is MDF there is no fixing it. It's made from ground up paper, once it gets wet it's trash.

kwikfishron 05-17-2013 07:58 PM

199 Attachment(s)
Where's the frame to the slider itself? That looks like MDF, if so it should “never” come in contact with water or you'll end up with what you have now.

“Solving the problem” without removing trim isn't going to happen.

funfool 05-17-2013 08:12 PM

yeah joe, I cant believe they would even offer mdf as a option for interior door jambs as you pointed out with hinge screw issues.
I am a fan of mdf, not anywhere near a exterior door or a interior door jamb.

This issue here is a bad photo and we need to see more at a better angle.
I also think it looks like mdf, but need photo's further back to see what is around it, also if it is truly threshold is flush with outside.

montydog 05-17-2013 08:24 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks for the input so far. Here is hopefully a better picture. This is a sliding closet door right at the entrance of my house. The floor is the tile floor landing that we step onto when we walk into the house.

Its only swollen on the end far from the exterior door, oddly enough.

I just want to fix this up so that I can make it look less horrible so I can consider selling the house in th the next six months. I'm not committed to moving yet, but want to fix it up. Replacing the whole jamb is a relatively big job.

joecaption 05-17-2013 08:34 PM

Not a big job at all.
Just remove the MDF casing and jamb and this time use real wood.
Going to take far longer to prime and paint then to remove and replace all the old trim.

funfool 05-17-2013 08:42 PM

Hey Joe, think with me here.
Is there a way they could possibly remove 3.5" up from the floor and replace with a horizontal 1x4. Like a fat foot with all the trim sitting on it.
Or better yet, how about replacing the bottom with sme tile that matches the existing?

joecaption 05-17-2013 08:46 PM

And do what with the failing casing.
A patch like that almost always shows.

funfool 05-17-2013 09:06 PM

Is only failing at the bottom, where it is soaking up the water.
Of course we have not seen the upper portion because we assume it is in good shape.

What I am thinking for a honest and decent repair. And consider that it is a massive amount of trim that may or may not look appropriate when you stand back at a distance and look at it.

I could turn the bottom 6" of that trim into a massive waterproof foot of hardibacker, thinset and marble or tile. ... such a small area, would be cheap for material, but the existing photos suggest huge trim.

mknasa dad 05-18-2013 09:20 PM

If you are dead set about not replacing, you can repair it with the 2 part glazing putty(Bondo). Not too hard to do, but it would be less work o replace it with wood.

Oso954 05-19-2013 02:28 PM

Bondo swells (expands) when exposed to water. If the MDF swelled up, the bondo will swell quicker.

jagans 05-19-2013 03:56 PM

Remove all the crap and replace it. I do not understand the use of "Massive" in any way shape or form, considering this is one door. Do it right so the next owner is not left with crap.

"Do unto others as you would have them do unto you"

Unless of course you are a snake, like the guy that used MDF in the first place.

Dont listen to half ass suggestions like bondo, or wood filler.

mj12 05-19-2013 05:42 PM

joint compound, never underestimate the strength of joint compound

funfool 05-19-2013 06:24 PM

going the patch existing wood repair, which sucks because it is mdf in a exterior door.
Just the wrong product in the wrong place.

Anyone here use the Durhams rock hard water putty?
This stuff is dirt cheap, comes in a powder form and just mix the amount you need, great for hauling around in my work van.
The stuff has been around forever, I know my grandfather used it because I found it in his shed a zillion years ago when I went to clean out his belongings.
I thought the old antique cardboard tube container was cool and was going to save it.
Is the exact same tube and container today.

But I have had good luck with repairing rot on non structural wood. Facia, door jambs, corbels etc...
Working with it is a bit tricky. It sets up pretty quick 15 - 30 min. And you need to shape it grind or sand while it is still workable.
Meaning, in about 20 min or less, when you can actually sand it, do so and finish it as you want.
If you put it on at night before going home, come back the next morning to finish it, Will need a 4" makita grinder with 60 grit paper to get it close, then a orbital sander with 80 grit, a metal file to do the inside corners .... this stuff is tough.

When you apply it, you stand there and stare at it and stick your fingers in it and play with it .... as soon as you can work it, DO SO! :yes:

montydog 10-09-2013 07:50 PM

Final repair
6 Attachment(s)
Hi there. Thanks for all the help previously. I got around to repairing and it and took some photos along the way to show the method.

Procedure overview:
I used an oscillating saw (similar to a Dremel Multi Max) to cut out the section that was damaged. The only mistake I made here was not making sure the cut was square.

Then replaced it with a piece of pine cut to size. Note I used a nail in the face of it to help align it properly with the outer moulding. I used a table saw to make shims to get the pine to the same reveal as the outer casing.

Then nailed in place with a pneumatic nailer and filled the seams with wood putty.

Sand and finish. Almost as good as new (at least better than before).

Also, I decided to repaint the metal bottom track with some Tremclad white paint. You can see the masking job below.

Next time I could spend a little more time finishing/sanding seam. Not quite sure how to get wood putty to sand smooth very smooth.

Hope someone finds this useful.

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