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How to find your studs

2K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  jagans 
#1 ·
Stud sensors seem to work less and less with each passing day. I deal with many types of walls, plaster, rough drywall, stud layout done off 16" on center. 2x4 on the side. It seems even the good stud sensors leave me knocking on the walls to find a stud. Does anyone have any tips for finding studs. One thing I am thinking when mounting brackets over wall paper is maybe a big sewing needle to make sure I hit wood without tearing the paper with a screw
 
#2 ·
There's usually a stud just to the left of electrical outlets then you can just pull layout from there.

Look at the baseboard nailing too. The top nail (at least) should be nailed to a stud.

I own a stud finder but rarely use it.
 
#3 ·
Depending on how they framed the walls, they could have started 16" O/C (On Center from hallway entrances, or doorways, or 16" O/C from the outside wall. I have never had problems with my stud sensor, and I have GypRock walls. Also some Stud Sensors are better than others.
 
#7 ·
The only finder I use is a straight pin protruding from the jaws of pliers in conjunction with the electrical box method.

For those items to be mounted high, the stud center is located low with the pin temporarily remaining there to stabilize a plum bob string. The next move is up the ladder using the string, a second pin and pliers to locate exact center up several feet.

Allowing the bob string to rest against the lower pin makes quick work of a not so fun task. If several items are to be wall hangers on that wall, leaving the first pin(s) in position for awhile for reference is a good plan too.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I use my Infrared camera on exterior walls, Its bullet proof, but its a damn expensive stud finder, and its seasonal. :laughing:

I also use the outlet box method, but I take off the plate to make sure its not a new work box.

In the picture below you can see where insulation is missing (The dark (cold) area between studs.) The studs are colder than the rest of the wall, due to insulation. This image isnt mine but its typical. (I would have moved the plant) :laughing:
 

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#9 ·
I use my Infrared camera on exterior walls, Its bullet proof, but its a damn expensive stud finder, and its seasonal. :laughing:

I also use the outlet box method, but I take off the plate to make sure its not a new work box.
Don't you mean Old work box. At least with old work boxes, you can pull them, and if able to get your hand in there, or even a end of a fishing rod, or a fish stick if you have one, you can find the stud. If neither of those, a metal coat hanger straightened out also works. Stick it in, mark where it meets the wall, then hold on the wall to mark where the stud is, measure from there.

There is always a trick in figuring it out. I thought that I would miss the stud where I was putting in a old work box for a coax for an antenna I installed, and found out when I marked the location, then drilled, right on the piece above the vent on the other side of the wall. Yep, forgot about that being right there, because I did not check that low, figuring I would miss anything, when I placed the box at the height of the outlet over a way from where I put in the box.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Hi Greg, yes you are right old work box :laughing: The cool ones with the pop out wings that back up on the drywall.

Not sure what you mean. This image is not mine, but lighter is usually hotter, but that can be reversed. To the left is a window. The dark area in about the middle is missing insulation between the studs. I always do IR surveys at night to eliminate problems from reflection etc. Of course on roofs they have to be done at night. IR is excellent for many things. plumbing leaks in walls are pretty easy. Electrical shorts are usually pretty easy. finding bad bearings, pretty easy.

Low slope commercial roofs are one of the hardest things to survey, and takes a lot of roofing knowledge and experience.
 
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