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DukeLewis87 06-07-2013 02:33 PM

How do you hang pvc?
 
Question.. 4" Pvc Exterior Trim

I have trim nail guns up to framing up to siding nail gun.

Would it be my best option to hand nail them and leave the nails visible or can i use a trim nail gun and use a pvc epoxy or something to fill them?

joecaption 06-07-2013 02:44 PM

Trim nails are to small a gauge and will rust.
Predrill the holes and use double dipped finish nails. Use a nail set to set them just below the surface and use something like Alex 230 caulking to fill the nail holes.

Use a stiff damp sponge to wipe off the excess. Do not leave any on the surface of the trim.

jagans 06-07-2013 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1197024)
Trim nails are to small a gauge and will rust.
Predrill the holes and use double dipped finish nails. Use a nail set to set them just below the surface and use something like Alex 230 caulking to fill the nail holes.

Use a stiff damp sponge to wipe off the excess. Do not leave any on the surface of the trim.

How is the water going to get to the trim nails? I just installed some PVC trim on an exterior with my trim nailer, and used alex sealant on the nails so I guess Ill see. The trim is sealed on both sides with sealant too, but who knows, you may be right.

iamrfixit 06-07-2013 04:38 PM

GRK trim head screws is all I have ever used. Your trim will stay put instead of loosening up and pulling away over time. A little slower than using a nailer but no pre-drilling required, they run in easily with a cordless drill or impact driver. Best of all you will never have to mess with the trim again.

PVC expands and contracts more than other materials, it needs to be fastened well. A finish nailer is just not going to do that. Nails that will rust are never a good idea on siding or trim, even when not exposed.

The screw heads can be driven just below the surface and caulked or there are other options that drive the screw and drill a plug hole, then a matching plug can be driven making the screw all but invisible. I have never used these but it looks interesting.


Cortex hidden fastener

joecaption 06-07-2013 05:03 PM

Trim screws work fine but leave a raised spot and have a larger head then a finish nail.

The double dipped finish nails are so rough I've never had one back out.

woodworkbykirk 06-07-2013 06:07 PM

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ive installed thousands of feet of pvc trim, weve had issues with lighter gauge galvonized nails.. not only do 16 gauge pins not have enough hold but the galvy`s do rust and bleed..


the best methods we have found is 15 gauge stainless steel no less than 2" long, or cortex screws.. the 15 gauge nails have a head which gives much more holding power and hte heavier shank resists seasonal movement. cortex screws hold even better however it takes quite a bit longer to fully fasten a piece.

heres just a few houses that ive worked on.. the cedar shingled ones recieved azec fascia and soffit details.. the other ones were azec trim around the windows and corner posts

kwikfishron 06-07-2013 06:30 PM

Like the lattice rain screen Kirk. :thumbsup:

woodworkbykirk 06-07-2013 08:28 PM

its sorta a step back.. we used to use homeslicker however the local building officials no longer accept it.. reason being too many guys are hand nailing cedar shingles which compresses it when the nail draws in.. gun nailing with a coil nailer or stapler doesnt draw the shingle against the house. theres a new plastic grid system avaialbe now but it costs about $1.45 /sq ft

loneframer 06-08-2013 03:55 PM

6 Attachment(s)
Azek recommends a full head nail with a blunt point for fastening....however, I've been using 16 gauge stainless steel gun nails for years and haven't had a piece come off yet. 18 gauge SS for trim pieces. For fascias, I like to pre-drill and use a SS siding nail or trim head SS screws to support gutter.

The only time I fill nails in PVC is if it's an entryway area. Anything you use will collect dirt and show as bad or worse than the small hole over time.


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