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tjb 12-07-2011 08:43 AM

How do I replace this Masonite siding? ( with pic )
 
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I have an area of Masonite siding that I need to replace. There was a water leak behind it that has since been fixed, but now I need to replace the Masonite siding that got ruined as a result. You can see it in the attached picture.

I'm not sure if Masonite is available anymore, I haven't been able to find it anywhere.

My question is, is there something similar I can use that looks the same? Ideally I just want to cut out the sections that need replacing.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

Wildie 12-07-2011 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjb (Post 788095)
I have an area of Masonite siding that I need to replace. There was a water leak behind it that has since been fixed, but now I need to replace the Masonite siding that got ruined as a result. You can see it in the attached picture.

I'm not sure if Masonite is available anymore, I haven't been able to find it anywhere.

My question is, is there something similar I can use that looks the same? Ideally I just want to cut out the sections that need replacing.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

Have you considered ripping the masonite siding all off and redoing the house with vinyl? Vinyl is easy to work with and makes an excellent DIY project.
Another option might be to cut the lower siding off and install, what I would call a vertical, vinyl wainscott.
The house that I live in now was originally a white cedar clap siding. Someone, before me, had aluminum siding installed over to of the cedar and it has worked well.

tjb 12-07-2011 09:30 AM

I thought about it, but can't justify the expense as surprisingly the rest of the siding is in good shape. We only plan to be in this house for another year so the investing in new siding might not be worth it. Thanks for the idea though!

titanoman 12-07-2011 10:02 AM

Is this in front or back? 12" Hardi-plank concrete siding might blend in once painted.

Clutchcargo 12-07-2011 10:17 AM

Since it's face nailed, it's simple.
Carefully cut the nails on the forth course up with a Sawzall (my brand of choice). Then you'll be able to pull bottom 3 courses off. I would not be surprised if you discover more problems behind the siding.
Replace from the bottom up.

I would recommend away from hardi-plank. I'm installing it on my house and I'd wished I went with shakes. Hardi is difficult and fragile to install; plus the dust from cutting is really bad for you. Also, I've got a couple pieces that are in the process of delaminating. That side of the house has been installed for a few years now.

tjb 12-07-2011 10:34 AM

Thanks so much for the info. Is this something I can buy at Home Depot or Lowes? Also, should I plan on removing the entire length of the bottom 3 courses? Or just cut out the section that is damaged?

Thanks again!

joecaption 12-07-2011 10:40 AM

Masonite has had a class action suit againt them for many years because it always failed and did major damage to home. At one time they were supplying free siding to replace it.
When you try and remove just sections of it you will find the one above it and below it will just fall apart. You may have to drive the nails in instead of cutting them off or pulling them.
If you do remove it you can count on mold and damaged insulation at least, more likly rotted studs and bottom plates.
There are other products out there that look like masonite that are not James Hardee. Any real siding supply and even Lowes and Home Depot may carry it.
I do not know the names of the companys because I just refuse to install itTo remove it your going to need to buy some 12" long saws all blades because there going to be another nail at the top of it.
Often times there was no sheathing or Tyvek under the masonite so to remove it and install vinyl you would have to install sheathing and Tyvec.
I agree with the other poster about James Hardee, it's a pain to install, but there are other ways to cut it with out using a ciruler saw to cut it and not have to deal with the dust. They make an attachment that goes on a cordless drill that works like a big pair of snips. There's also a gillitean cutter.

titanoman 12-07-2011 10:49 AM

They also make 4x8' 3/8" douglas "fir blank" soffit material that you can rip accordingly. I'd primer, fill any voids on the bottom edge with a 50 year silicone and paint. If it's in a high visibility area, I would replace the entire course(s). If in the back, I would piece it in, staggering the joints at least 32".


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