How do I Lower Closet Header? - DIY Chatroom

cheapchick · 08-29-2009, 09:23 PM

My grandmother passed away recently and we are trying to fix up her house to sell. The closets have these awful vinyl folding panels from the 50s. I want to remove these and put in regular doors but the panels are 95 inches tall. I haven't seen stock closet doors that tall. I would like to lower the header 10 inches or so but I don't know how. I have been trying to find info online or a book but all I can find is info on how to build a closet from scratch. Does anybody know where I can figure out how to do this?

Bob Mariani · 08-30-2009, 08:44 AM

you don't move the existing header. Simply add another 2X 4 at the 81 1/2" height you need for the new doors. Add 2X4 blocks vertically at 16" on centers between this new "header" and the existing header. Use a wider top trim board to cover the lowered area or drywall and patch and use the existing trim after cutting the excess from the bottom of both trim legs.

TooledUp · 08-30-2009, 11:15 AM

+1---what bob said!!

cheapchick · 08-30-2009, 01:37 PM

I know this is a fairly simple thing to do. I have been looking at diagrams of how a closet is constructed and how the opening should be. I just don't know how to attach the new header. Come to think of it, the old doors go all the way to the ceiling...there is no drop. The diagrams show the header resting on jack studs but what is my new header supposed to rest on? I really need instructions...

UpComingBuilder · 08-30-2009, 03:28 PM

The header rests on the jack studs. The studs next to the jacks (king stud), that's where you nail your header into. [k][j][header][j][k] The jacks hold it up in place. Nail in the king studs for support. You could probably just use a double 2x4 header. With cripples on top.

cheapchick · 08-30-2009, 04:14 PM

I'm still not getting how the new header is supported. If I'm nailing a board across an existing opening what supports the weight of the new closet doors? The doors are 60lbs. If the doors are suspended from the new header and the header is held up by nails then I find it hard to believe nails are going to hold up my 60lb doors. Normally the jack studs hold up the header but there are no jack studs; they are under the drywall.

UpComingBuilder · 08-30-2009, 06:04 PM

Use 16D common nails, thats what builders usually use to nail studs in for a whole house. And use screws for the new doors. Screw them into the jack studs where the drywall is.

**Scuba_Dave** · 08-30-2009, 09:11 PM

Doors are not suspended from the header
The trim/door frame should be attached to the framing on either side
On the hinge side I use extra long screws to make sure the door is fully supported
The hinge side is what holds the weight as the door swings open
Doors in a non-load bearing wall do not even need a header

Ah...wait - closet door
Is this on a track? Bi-folds ?
In that case then the door IS suspended from the track in a lot of cases
So are you putting in bi-fold doors
Or a reg door(s) ?

Jay123 · 08-31-2009, 01:45 PM

I agree with the others, here's an illustration if it helps:

Existing bi-fold (I know you said yours goes up to the ceiling, but for illustation purposes this is a 95" existing door with 106" ceilings):

New "standard" size door:

Bob Mariani · 08-31-2009, 02:36 PM

What you are missing is the header is to support the weight bearing down on it from above such as the second floor or roof loads. The door has no connection to this header at all.

Jay123 · 08-31-2009, 03:52 PM

Not sure what you mean bob (or was that to the op?)

I'm guessing that was for the op

skymaster · 08-31-2009, 04:55 PM

Jay; simply put when a house is originally framed all openings are headered off to take the structural load above them. If you are replacing a door in a previously framed hole odds are it is already headered off, therefore as in this case the opening is higher than needed for new door. You infill the opening to fit the new door and everything you do to infill is NOT STRUCTURAL it is only for sheetrock and trim nailers and to hold the door frame.

That said IF you go with a larger door or window than original then you have to reframe including new header. Not talkin down to you dont misunderstand me am just trying to clarify which I hope I am doing :}:}:}:}:}:}

Jay123 · 08-31-2009, 05:34 PM

Kind of like I drew it?

I figured bob was talking to the op, just wanted to make sure.

Jay123 · 08-31-2009, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skymaster

Jay; simply put when a house is originally framed all openings are headered off to take the structural load above them. If you are replacing a door in a previously framed hole odds are it is already headered off, therefore as in this case the opening is higher than needed for new door. You infill the opening to fit the new door and everything you do to infill is NOT STRUCTURAL it is only for sheetrock and trim nailers and to hold the door frame.

That said IF you go with a larger door or window than original then you have to reframe including new header. Not talkin down to you dont misunderstand me am just trying to clarify which I hope I am doing :}:}:}:}:}:}

Yeah, I agree with all that sky, do it on a regular basis (or did

)

Joe Carola · 08-31-2009, 09:40 PM

What is the problem here? He has an existing opening that's 59 years old. All he wants to do is lower the height. All he has to do is drop it down with 2-2x4's flat and some cripples above. No jack or king studs necessary. Nothing structural. Maybe there's a flush header above if it's a bearing wall, maybe there's no header above and it's non bearing wall. It's been this way for 59 years.