Hi All,
How do I replace existing windows with "new construction" windows? I'm having new siding installed to replace siding damaged in a hail storm. I've been planning to replace our wood windows with vinyl clad windows, and I want to use new-constrution windows rather than replacement windows, because I want a new sill, frame, jamb, etc. I have 1x6 cedar trim around each window, which I could easily remove to gain access to the nail flange and rough opening. I was thinking of installing the new windows before our contractor installs new siding. He's putting on Tyvek, and I'd like to have it run up to the edge of the windows. (Is it better to have the Tyvek wrapped into the rough opening like it is on new construction, or is it OK to run it up to the edges of the windows?) It might be difficult to coordinate the Tyvek going, windows being installed, trim going on, and siding being installed, so I might be stuck with the Tyvek going up to the windows edges. Also, the drywall on the interior runs up closely to the window jambs, so I wouldn't be able to shim or add insulation after the new windows are installed because the drywall would be in the way. In preparation to install two casement windows, I Rotozipped the drywall back to the rough opening so I could accuratetely measure the opening and order the correct size window, and so I could shim and add insulation. I could Rotozip the rest of my windows, but it would create a lot of dust and would remove the benefit of having drywall as an added layer of insulation covering the opening. Can I simply remove the old windows from the outside, wrap insulation around the window frame, set it in place, make sure it's level and plumb, skip shimming, and face nail it using 2 1/2" roofing nails through the nail flange? If I don't remove the drywall with my Rotozip, is there an accurate way to determine my rough opening so I can order the correct size windows? What's the best way to all this? How do the pros do it?
Thanks so very much.
Rick
How do I replace existing windows with "new construction" windows? I'm having new siding installed to replace siding damaged in a hail storm. I've been planning to replace our wood windows with vinyl clad windows, and I want to use new-constrution windows rather than replacement windows, because I want a new sill, frame, jamb, etc. I have 1x6 cedar trim around each window, which I could easily remove to gain access to the nail flange and rough opening. I was thinking of installing the new windows before our contractor installs new siding. He's putting on Tyvek, and I'd like to have it run up to the edge of the windows. (Is it better to have the Tyvek wrapped into the rough opening like it is on new construction, or is it OK to run it up to the edges of the windows?) It might be difficult to coordinate the Tyvek going, windows being installed, trim going on, and siding being installed, so I might be stuck with the Tyvek going up to the windows edges. Also, the drywall on the interior runs up closely to the window jambs, so I wouldn't be able to shim or add insulation after the new windows are installed because the drywall would be in the way. In preparation to install two casement windows, I Rotozipped the drywall back to the rough opening so I could accuratetely measure the opening and order the correct size window, and so I could shim and add insulation. I could Rotozip the rest of my windows, but it would create a lot of dust and would remove the benefit of having drywall as an added layer of insulation covering the opening. Can I simply remove the old windows from the outside, wrap insulation around the window frame, set it in place, make sure it's level and plumb, skip shimming, and face nail it using 2 1/2" roofing nails through the nail flange? If I don't remove the drywall with my Rotozip, is there an accurate way to determine my rough opening so I can order the correct size windows? What's the best way to all this? How do the pros do it?
Thanks so very much.
Rick