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Toronto 07-27-2012 07:29 PM

How to create hinge mortise on bevelled hinge edge using a router & jig?
 
I have 10 sapele mahogany veneered solid core doors 1-3/4 inch thick. They came pre-bevelled on both the hinge and strike side. I have to create the hinge mortise on the bevelled hinge edge for the 4-1/4 inch hinges I have. Does anyone know what the easiest way to do this would be using a jig and router?

I was going to make my own jig out of wood and then use the router to make the mortise but now this seems a bit more problematic because if the jig was at a 90 degree angle to the door face the mortice would then be cut at this same 90 degree angle and would therefore be deeper towards the back of the bevel than at the front. I want the mortice to be the same depth towards the back of the bevel so the face of the hinge is flush with the bevelled edge of the door, not a bit deeper towards the back of the door edge.

Any ideas? How would I make a jig to do this or is there one I can buy (but I don`t think I would find something to buy readily available as I am in Toronto and most pre-made jigs seem to be only available online in the US)? I don`t want to chisel these out by hand as I don`t think I would be very good at it and these were very expensive doors to replace if I made a mistake.

oh'mike 07-27-2012 07:46 PM

Sears has ,or used to have, a metal hinge template that is nailed on the edge of the door---therefore making the beveled edge not concern---see if they still have them---

oh'mike 07-27-2012 07:49 PM

https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/im...1KE4cpXRNXW-ug

Like this--Google images--sears router hinge template

Toronto 07-27-2012 08:17 PM

Thanks but I really do not want to put 6 nail holes (2 x 3 hinges) into the edge of these expensive sapele mahogany veneered doors. I see there is a Hinge Mate HM-1100W door hinge template in aluminum that has received some good reviews and can be adjusted using an aluminum angle on the edge so that the template follows the bevel. The problem is I am in Canada and they don`t have them here and I need to start hanging these doors tomorrow.

I was hoping someone might have an idea on how to create a jig out of wood that I then could use with a router to create this mortise. A jig, that is, that would sit flush against the bevel.

mae-ling 07-27-2012 08:45 PM

Mkae your own jig that clamps onto the door, kinda a U shape to wrap the door

Duckweather 07-27-2012 09:01 PM

They sound like a reversible door, left or right. The hinges should be put in with the hinge pin on the side of the longest or widest edge. The depth should be uniform as the hinge will not be affected as it is rotating in that direction. It will simply rest in a slightly open position. They used to make but hinge cutter, (like a rectangular leather stamp) for most hinges, size & depth. You mark the spot, place the sharpened edge on the door and tap it in with a hammer, remove it and chisel out with a good 1/2" to 3/4" sharp chisel.

Toronto 07-27-2012 09:11 PM

It seems to me that that is what I have to do. I`d have to measure the angle of the bevel and have the bottom a part of the U at that same angle. I would have one leg of the U and the bottom of the U glued and screwed together, ie an `L`shape, but what I am not sure about is how to make it so I can clamp the other leg onto the L. I want it to be a tight fit but that would mean possibly marring the veneer finish when I slide it on so I would want it to be somehow loosely connected to the L so that I could then tighten it on to the edge of the wood door with all 3 faces of the U tight against the it.

Does anyone know how I could design this custom wood piece? What kind of mechanism could I use to fasten the other leg of the U loosely to it so then I could tighten it? If anyone has a sketch that would be great.


Toronto 07-27-2012 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duckweather (Post 975826)
They sound like a reversible door, left or right. The hinges should be put in with the hinge pin on the side of the longest or widest edge. The depth should be uniform as the hinge will not be affected as it is rotating in that direction. It will simply rest in a slightly open position. They used to make but hinge cutter, (like a rectangular leather stamp) for most hinges, size & depth. You mark the spot, place the sharpened edge on the door and tap it in with a hammer, remove it and chisel out with a good 1/2" to 3/4" sharp chisel.

I want to avoid using a chisel as I have found it has not worked for me well in the past the few times I have used one and these are natural finish expensive doors that can`t be patched and painted. I would like to use a router and just need to know how to fabricate a wood piece that would be able to be clamped down on to the edge, the bottom part of the U being at the same angle as the bevel.

mae-ling 07-27-2012 09:28 PM

[IMG]http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...g/Hingejig.jpg[/IMG]

Make jig inside legs just 1/32 or so wider then door width, after felting the inside edges so as to not scratch the door. The top big enough for your router, The hole the size need for a pattern bit or collar to ride inside of.

The top edge of the legs are cut to the angle of you door edge. Use a clamp to camp the legs to the sides of the door.

Toronto 07-27-2012 09:43 PM

Thanks for that and for going to the trouble of posting the picture. But, I think that even with felt that assembly might run the risk of moving slightly when the jig is used.
I think I found the answer in the video below. This guy made an adjustable jig to mortise different sized hinges in doors of different thicknesses, albeit his is for doors where there is no bevel on the hinge side, ie his jig profile is a U with all sides perpendicular. I would have the bottom of the U at a slight angle to reflect the angle of the bevel on my door edges, like you did in the above picture. I don`t have to make mine adjustable for hinge size as all my hinges are the same size. What I do want is to be able to adjust is the back fence. ie the one leg of the U which you can see in the video that he is able to slide back and forward in order to clamp it on tightly to the door with removable clamps. This is much better than making it the exact thickness of the door or slightly larger and using felt I think. Clamps would make it very secure without any chance of moving when the router is used. I would also make 3 different spacers in the shape of an L to place against the top and bottom edges of the door (with the long side running along the door face) which I would then slide the jig against so that the spacing of the 3 hinges would be exactly the same on each door

What I need to find to make the sliding back fence like he did are those rails that he has installed into grooves in the wood and those knobs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYReLwLucLE

Does anyone know who might have them in the Toronto area? I am going to start with Lee Valley.

Keith Mathewson 07-27-2012 10:39 PM

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=40

Can't miss.

BigJim 07-27-2012 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith Mathewson (Post 975914)

I would love to see one of those planes in action.

mae-ling 07-28-2012 12:40 AM

My two posts were supposed to go together, would use clamps as well, felt is there to protect the door.
Very similar to the other design but not adjustable.

Keith Mathewson 07-28-2012 11:48 AM

Here you are Mike

http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2011/...ewson-profile/

Toronto 07-28-2012 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mae-ling (Post 975951)
My two posts were supposed to go together, would use clamps as well, felt is there to protect the door.
Very similar to the other design but not adjustable.

Yes but how do you clamp tightly and stop the jig from moving as your use the router if at least one of those legs drawing don't move? And if it does move then how is it attached to the to part that has the cut out for the jig? I guess one could clamp the two legs, then screw the loose leg in from the top but that's a lot of work to do every time you do another hinge.


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