How To Best Fit A Door Slab That's Too Tight? - Carpentry - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

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Old 09-08-2007, 02:48 PM   #16
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Cool! It's nice to know I can do it with what I have on hand. I don't mind something taking longer if I don't have the proper equipment and need to hand sand, for example. If I need to buy something to do a job properly I usually will (or rent it), but if it's not requisite I'd rather just put more time/elbow grease into the job with what I have than dropping more $ for something I'll use once and put on the shelf!

If I'm trying to make the door *slightly* thinner (not depth, less wide, like 35.5" instead of 36" wide), can I use the circular saw on such thin cuts? Is there some kind of 'thinnest' strip that I shouldn't try to go past? (btw I'm pretty decent for a diy'er on the saw, so my cuts are typically very precise)

(realized that may've been phrased badly - I'm just asking what's the thinnest cut I could take off with a circular, since we all know I couldn't remove only 1/8" with the circular since that's the width of the blade, I'd be kinda saw-chiselling lol!)


Last edited by joeyboy; 09-08-2007 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 09-08-2007, 04:08 PM   #17
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The edge wood pine on todays HC and solid core chip filled slabs are about 1 and 1/4 " or a little less. When I need to take more than 3/4" off the width I cut both sides.

Follow Ron's post, right way to do it. I don't bevel cut, except the bottom on an out swing slab, but gap 3/16" keeper side and top. a lot of humidity in NE FL.

Like Ron said, If the old door fits well use it as a template.

Cut you hole for the knob last after the new slab fits well in the jamb.
This keeps cut and shape options open.

Happy Hanging

Don't resist buying that belt sander. Great for sharpening tools, scaring the cat, and turns many other projects turn into fun.

Last edited by Big Bob; 09-08-2007 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 09-08-2007, 05:09 PM   #18
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the most helpful and important tool is a STRAIGHT EDGE GUIDE. clamp it in position and then guide the saw from it. quality will improve gazillion precent.
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Old 09-08-2007, 07:39 PM   #19
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Where do you live??

IF you live anywhere its cold,,,take that darn wood door back and go by yourself a good quality prehung steel door. THEY have magnetic stripping that self seals against the metal door. I have a wood slab solid door and it is the coldest leakiest door in the house. Seasonal change alone changes every time the weather does, IT always warps in the winter to where you can blow dry your hair next to it!!(AND thats dang cold air to boot).

The last fibergass door I put in was my last too,,,that magnetic strip is what you WANT!!! The rest are jokes at best!!
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Old 09-12-2007, 09:36 AM   #20
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If I properly prime and paint this slab, how much swelling should I really be expecting? I've already got the slab, it's already been knicked in my possession, so kinda gotta stay with it! Plus it's a huge upgrade anyways, as the current front door is *hollow*!!! No stronger than my bedroom door!

Anyways, I tried packing the hinges but it was just too tight in the end. I unpacked the hinges and removed the door, and surprisingly was able to cut off only 2/8" strip, very clean too (I think it'd be 2/8", since my strip was 1/8", and the blade should be 1/8"...). Little tip - I don't know if this mattered here but I read it somewhere - put tape at your cut line to reduce splintering (I had practically zero splintering).

Now it's hung, swings open and closed will with the top, bottom, and latch/strike plate sides of the frame, but right before closing gets tough because of the hinge side of the frame!!! AAAhhhhh I chiseled the hinge recesses too deep!! Gotta pack both of the hinge recesses on the slab now!!


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