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Old 08-10-2016, 07:58 PM   #1
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How to approach this hidden cabinet "door"?


The build of my aquarium stand continues, but I'm stuck on a couple of small problems. One of them being this panel on the side that needs to somehow be a door, preferably a flip up door.

In that part of the stand will be a 20 gallon aquarium that can only be slid into place from the side of the stand.
This is only a 3/16" thick panel so it's reinforced on the sides with some off cut pine strips.

There's about 1/4 to less than 1/2" between the strips and the 2x4 supports on the stand.
The paneling extends about 3 1/2" above the line that's drawn inside. it will be stapled to the 2x4 that's poorly stained in the first pic.
the drawn line is where I was planning on cutting it to put in a hinge so it would swing up.
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Old 08-11-2016, 09:38 AM   #2
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Re: How to approach this hidden cabinet "door"?


Door material also depends on the kind of hinge you need and how much clearance you need for the door to operate. 3/16" ply may be too thin by itself. You have 2 cleats for the sides but also need them on top and bottom and probably a couple in the middle. Cut the bottom as well to clear the finish flooring - a carpet would need more. The side cleats that thin may warp with the ply. Get your hinge first. Photo doesn't show much because of the black paint but you may be limited to face hinge or piano hinge. Piano hinge can't support a lot of weight because it uses small flat head screws.
You may be better off making the panel pop off with magnet or hidden latch and get a cheap cart for work table.

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Old 08-11-2016, 02:02 PM   #3
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Re: How to approach this hidden cabinet "door"?


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Originally Posted by carpdad View Post
Door material also depends on the kind of hinge you need and how much clearance you need for the door to operate. 3/16" ply may be too thin by itself. You have 2 cleats for the sides but also need them on top and bottom and probably a couple in the middle. Cut the bottom as well to clear the finish flooring - a carpet would need more. The side cleats that thin may warp with the ply. Get your hinge first. Photo doesn't show much because of the black paint but you may be limited to face hinge or piano hinge. Piano hinge can't support a lot of weight because it uses small flat head screws.
You may be better off making the panel pop off with magnet or hidden latch and get a cheap cart for work table.
The cleats were just a left over strip of pine that I ripped off another board, so I cut it in half and used it.
It also won't be used as a table though having the ability to lock into place would be useful so that I don't have to fight with holding it open and trying to move an aquarium in or out of there.

For the most part it will likely never really be open, it's sole purpose is simply to allow me to slide an aquarium in the through the side since it wouldn't fit through the door.
If I cut it above the trim it'll be less "hidden", and also would mean that I'd have to lift the aquarium over the edge of trim. This really may not be a problem though since I don't exactly plan on taking a tank in and out frequently. When it's in it's in.

So I might look at cutting it above the trim and maybe putting some piece of other thin trim to hide the cut/door but then that means I wouldn't be able to put trim along the edge of the panel to hide where it meets the columns on the outside.

...... I'm definitely no cabinet maker
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Old 08-11-2016, 03:05 PM   #4
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Re: How to approach this hidden cabinet "door"?


Quote:
Originally Posted by carpdad View Post
You may be better off making the panel pop off with magnet or hidden latch and get a cheap cart for work table.
Like the magnetic catch idea
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:46 PM   #5
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Re: How to approach this hidden cabinet "door"?


Actually I think I'll do what you said and use some kind of magnet to just make the panel removeable. It's the easiest option since I won't be using the panel as a tabletop at all.
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