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How to apply trim & moulding to Crowder Pocket Door Frame Steel Studs

8K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  ron45 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I am using K.N.Crowder pocket door frames that include hollow rectangular steel studs. Does anyone know how to attach the jamb trim that goes on either side of the pocket against the steel stud and the moulding the goes on the drywall which then attaches to the face of the steel stud? Also how does one attach the drywall?

For the wood all I can think of is to counter sink metal screws through the wood into the stud and then plug them with wood plugs. For the moulding against the drywall the same and the drywall itself would be held in by the pressure of the moulding as you cannot countersink metal screws into it as it would burst the paper and crack the substrate. Also I am thinking of using PL Premium glue behind the wood too and the drywall or maybe PL Premium is enough and no screws?

Does anyone know how to do this? I called KN Crowder. They said they don't give instructions on how to apply the trim!
 

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#6 · (Edited)
I did some more research so and along with mae-ling's help here, I would like to post this info for anyone's benefit that has the same question as me:

How to attach drywall:

KN Crowder's hollow rectangular steel studs are light gauge steel. More specifically, they are 0.040" thick and therefore 20 gauge. One first attaches the drywall on either side of the pocket door assembly to the steel studs using the drywall screws for steel studs that KNCrowder supplies with the pocket door kit (forgot about those!)

How to attach jamb trim:


For the jamb trim on either side of the pocket door opening one applies adhesive to the edge of the steel studs, applies the trim and then shoots 15, 16 or 18 (16 or 18 are likely good enough but test first) gauge hardened brad nails perpendicular into the trim and through into the face of the edge of the steel stud. How far apart along the trim is up to you.

How to attach moulding:

For the moulding one does the same but applies the adhesive to the drywall first. Make sure you only apply a thin bead as you don't want it to squeeze out and onto the exposed drywall or to where it meets the jamb trim. You can apply some carpenters glue to where the moulding meets the jamb trim if you think it is necessary. Make sure the hardened brad nails you use are not so long that they protrude the other side of the steel studs so that they can scratch the pocket door.

How to attach baseboard:

For the baseboard you apply adhesive to the drywall first, then apply the baseboard and then shoot 2 brad nails at opposing angles to each other at the same location about 3/4" apart. It is not necessary to shoot them at the location of the stud as they are only there to apply pressure until the glue dries. You don't need to shoot many. Probably one close to the door opening beside the first steel stud and one just after the second steel stud is enough.

Senco sells 15 gauge hardened brad nails in 1-1/4", 1-1/2" and 1-3/4" lengths and there are other suppliers of hardened 16 & 18 gauge brad nails.

You can also use self drilling metal screws with small square heads countersunk into the wood instead of bran nails but then that requires you predrill holes into the wood so it doesn't split, the drill the countersink hole, then screw in the metal screw, then plug and flush cut each hole and that is all very time consuming. Also, if you are not painting the wood the plugged holes, while the same species of wood, will be more visible. I am using sapele mahogany and you can hardly see the holes using brad nails once they are plugged and the wood is varnished.
 
#9 ·
Not at all. We are talking about Crowder pocket door kits, not the Johnson pocket door kit you just posted a diagram of!

Crowder's studs are rectangular steel tubing (ie steel all 4 sides). Johnson's are steel U-channels wrapped around wood as you can see in your diagram.
 
#2 ·
adhesive and cross nailing. 2 nails about 3/4" to 1inch apart and angled towards each other.
You could also use trim screws for metal studs, as they have a small head.

make sure your nails or screws are short enough not to come through the stud and scratch the door.
 
#3 ·
Thanks! Would you use PL Premium or some other glue?

I don't understand how I would cross nail. Do you mean the jamb trim to the moulding? Wouldn't they end up protruding through the wood on the opposite side? They would have to be very short. Also, I am not sure what you mean by only 2 nails. Is that 2 opposing cross nails 3/4" apart every foot or along the lenght of the jamb and moulding?
 
#5 ·
Thank you. I am surprised that I googled for an hour and could not find a video like that. That explains it but I am surprised even hardened finish nails can penetrate through metal studs. The steel used on the KN Crowder studs appears to be very hard.

Would you use 16 or 18 gauge? I would rather use the latter as the pinholes that need to be filled will be smaller. I'd rather not buy both to test given I will only be using one of the other. Also, do you know a source where I can purchase them online?

Thanks so much!
 
#13 ·
You inform me that I have the studs facing the wrong way and show a picture of Johnson studs, which is not what I am talking about.

Then you say you are not talking about Johnson. Huh?

The question I posed which you repeat for some reason, is the whole reason for this thread, duh.

If you have nothing useful to add, take a hint and don't comment. I for one am going to ignore your posts from now on.
 
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