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Old 02-20-2010, 07:47 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Bob Mariani View Post
on raw wood you first use a pre-stain if the wood is soft. (and this wood is) This will even out the levels that the stain sinks in. Thus you get a less blotchy stain job. Then you apply the stain. Now the stain needs to be sealed.... so next you use a sealer. Then sand and clean. Then two top cost of poly
Can anyone recommend a sealer? Minwax says not to use its sealer over stain and the door is already stained at this point.

A friend of mine said to use Varnish (not Poly) over the sealer if I want the door to resemble all the others in my house. He said Poly hadn't been invented when my doors were finished so they're most likely varnished. Lowes is the only place I can find Varnish... it's a Shallac Varnish and unfortunately, it said not to use on a sealer. I'm feeling pretty lost here. I went back to my friend and he said to forgo the sealer and use two coats of varnish if I can't find an acceptable sealer; but, aside from that... he said the varnish should not be a Shallac.

Any specific product and store recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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Old 02-20-2010, 07:50 PM   #17
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spar varnish by Helmsman is pretty good stuff may be of help. Talk to people at a paint store not lowes
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Old 02-20-2010, 07:53 PM   #18
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spar varnish by Helmsman is pretty good stuff may be of help. Talk to people at a paint store not lowes
What is the difference between spar varnish and varnish?

Can spar varnish be used over sanding sealer? If so, can you recommend a brand and store?
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Old 03-04-2010, 10:52 AM   #19
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Most lauan or okume skinned doors are 2-ply. The skin thickness is a standard 1/8" of an inch thick. It should be possible to sand and restain.
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Old 03-04-2010, 11:21 AM   #20
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I have sanded, stained, and varnished - however, the varnish has this white creaminess to it in certain areas. I don't know what went wrong. Any idea what would cause that?

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