help, loose door hinges screws

clyde · 12-10-2007, 09:29 AM

Hello to everyone,
I have an odd situation, I have a unusual sized heavy front wooded door.
its hard to close because the door rubs against the door frame by the stike plate i realize this is doing it because the hinges are loose from the door frame but after trying to retighten them the screws keep on spining, they are striped.
the middle hindge, the door frame around the screws is starting to split and
the door frame is 3 inches from the nearest stud on the hinge size of the door so longer screws isnt a very good option right now.

other then replacing the door, which i know i need to have done when the money permit, can anyone suggest an less expensive alternative way to fixing this issue they could advise me on?

Im current at work so I will post pictures later tonite to help give a better idea of my situation.
if any of you fine people could offer me some tried and true methods of fixing this delema although all help and suggestions are appreciated.

AllanJ · 12-10-2007, 11:10 AM

Insert a thin sliver of wood, such as a wood matchstick, into the screw hole and retry the screw.

Do all the screws at once. One at a time and the weight of the door will still tear the screws out.

And yes, for a three inch gap, do try to find four inch screws that are skinny enough that the heads don't protrude and interfere with the door after being screwed in all the way. Not sure whether they come four inches long but I have had good results with three inch drywall screws (they're quite skinny) to reach a stud two inches away.

Also worth trying for the top hinge, put two four inch screws, one an inch above and one an inch below the hinge to pull the door frame back into squareness if needed. The hole (pilot hole) in the door frame can be fully as big as the screw shank to make it easier to screw in.

Mike Swearingen · 12-10-2007, 11:32 AM

Also squirt wood glue into the holes before inserting the wood match sticks, etc.
Mike

clyde · 12-10-2007, 01:47 PM

thanks for the suggestions

couple questions.
if i place the match stick in the holes and glue them in
will the glue be stong enough to hold the screw in?
what to prevent the screws from coming out?

also any suggestions on the middle hindge with the wood starting to split where the screws hold in hindge in?

ron schenker · 12-10-2007, 03:29 PM

I'd drill small holes and then glue in a piece dowel into each hole

mikey48 · 12-10-2007, 05:16 PM

I use golf tees and glue.

Kingfisher · 12-10-2007, 05:21 PM

they also make 4" screws

Sammy · 12-10-2007, 07:00 PM

I would try all of the above listed suggestions first but if its three inches from the frame to the first stud is just a poor door installation.

If these suggestions dont work I would pop the case molding on the hinge side and see if you have enough room to insert some wood blocking for some meat to attach some screws.

Worst case you should have enough room to slip in some machine screws thru the hinges and nuts on the stud side of the frame to tighten up the hinges til you make a permanent fix or replace the door.

Ron6519 · 12-10-2007, 11:55 PM

The door should have three 4" hinges for the weight described. If you've exaggerated, 3- 3 1/2" hinges. A 3" space behind the hinge side of this door is stupid. Install a 2x4 and a 1x4 to take up the space. Install shims to make up the rest. The deeper screw pocket should be a #8, 3" screw The two screws closest to the interior should be #10 1" screws.
Ron

scorrpio · 12-11-2007, 10:55 AM

For exterior doors:
On all 3 hinges, at least one screw should be a 4" going all the way into the framing THROUGH THE SHIMS. That is, there should be no empty between jamb and stud. If you have 3" of space there, I would see about stuffing two extra 2x4s in there and toenailing them to stud and top/bottom plates. A healthy dose of Liquid Nails is also recommended. Then, sink them 4" screws allthe way through the hinges.

For security purpose, strike plate should also be attached with 4" screws going through jamb and shim into framing.

ron schenker · 12-12-2007, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scorrpio

For exterior doors:
On all 3 hinges, at least one screw should be a 4" going all the way into the framing THROUGH THE SHIMS. That is, there should be no empty between jamb and stud. If you have 3" of space there, I would see about stuffing two extra 2x4s in there and toenailing them to stud and top/bottom plates. A healthy dose of Liquid Nails is also recommended. Then, sink them 4" screws allthe way through the hinges.

For security purpose, strike plate should also be attached with 4" screws going through jamb and shim into framing.

Good advice. I agree whole heartedly

End Grain · 12-15-2007, 02:09 AM

I've had terrific success using pieces of small perforated metal sheets that come on a card and look and feel like a cheese grater surface. ACE definitely carries them in the anchor/screw/bolt section. I cut a small piece off and roll it slightly into a curve with needle nose pliers. Then, I insert this piece of perforated metal into each stripped screw hole and reinsert the original screw. The metal perforations are sharp and dig into the surrounding wood. The screw tightens its way through the hole and against the metal and holds securely.

ManMythLegend · 12-19-2007, 02:08 PM

The dowel idea works like a champ, but I would also use little longer and thicker screw....

clyde · 12-19-2007, 02:31 PM

i wound up getting a whole new door installation done.
the only thing holding the door frame in was the moulding on the inside and outside of the house.
its a pretty old house and studs that the door was not mounted to had to be reconstructed cause there was also 3 inches of space above the door too. so to make a new door frame fit it had to be "adjusted"

thanks for everyones suggestions