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Old 03-29-2011, 01:10 AM   #1
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Help framing rake wall


Hi! Just joined this board -- what a wealth of great information! Hoping someone can help me with how to go about framing a new interior non-bearing rake wall. This wall will be 14' wide, run perpendicular to the ridge beam, and have one opening for a doorway. The ridge beam is 9' high and the sidewalls are 8' high (gotta love those old ranch houses!). The ceiling is vaulted -- just ridge beam and rafters (no attic or trusses).

I have a few questions about how to build this new wall:
1) should I build it flat on the floor and then raise it, or upright, stud by stud?
2) can I reuse some salvaged 7' boards to build a square wall and then fill in the triangular gap with cripples?

Thanks in advance!

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Old 03-29-2011, 12:20 PM   #2
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Help framing rake wall


If this is your first go building a rake wall, I wouldn't build it on the ground.

Also, you definitely want to build it all in one piece. Building a square wall with a triangle on top will create a joint in the framing that will move and flex over time causing the wall to bow and your drywall to crack.

Easiest way to do it is to use a Construction Master calculator. There is a tutorial in the instructions that will walk you through and give you all necessary lengths, heights, and angles.

If you don't have one, you can figure your angles, cut your plates, layout studs, and then plum up from your layout marks to get the length of each individual stud.

Good luck,

Dave

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Old 03-29-2011, 06:17 PM   #3
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Help framing rake wall


Thanks, Seattle, for your quick and helpful response! I don't have the Construction Master calculator, but I'll look into getting one. Since this is a non-bearing partition wall, am I correct that I am fine with a single top plate?

I am reconfiguring the kitchen and it currently has roll linoleum where the old cabinets used to be. My new wall falls in an area that is bare subfloor on one side and linoleum on the other (length-wise). Should I shim the new wall or cut the bottom plate where the subfloor/linoleum transition occurs? Or does anyone have a clever trick for getting the mastic off the subfloor? The linoleum comes off pretty well with a scraper, but the mastic is bear to get off.

Thanks!
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