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Old 11-11-2008, 04:34 PM   #1
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Help: Door posts not plumb


Our enclosed patio has wood framing/posts. The doorway runs from along the side of the house (hinges) to the wood framing/posts and walls of the patio itself. At the doorway the existing striker post (at the patio wall) is not plumb. It leans in (from bottom to top) about 7/8".

There is no casing around this doorway and there is no room for adding casing in between the posts. NOTE: We could add casing on the inside or outside facing of the doorway.

We bought a new metal, storm door (Larsen brand) and are trying to re-set the hinge post (the one along the wall of the house) for the new door.

So here is our dilema:
- Option A: set the hinge post plumb and level (as all "how to's" state for hanging a door), or
- Option B: set the hinge post paralle to and thus mimicing the non-plumb patio wall (and striker) post.

Which option is best and why is it best?

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Old 11-11-2008, 10:17 PM   #2
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Help: Door posts not plumb


Do you have the option of using a sledge to move the post into plumb?

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Old 11-12-2008, 11:39 AM   #3
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Help: Door posts not plumb


Quote:
Originally Posted by Marvin Gardens View Post
Do you have the option of using a sledge to move the post into plumb?
Alas, not without breaking the 5'x5' window on the otther side of the post.

Am I wrong???...
  • Option A = lots of work, and a visibly doctored looking entrance that hopefully will yeild a flush fitting closed door.
  • Option B = less work for flush closed door, but more work on the closure piston keeping the door from closing prematurely and too suddenly.
My google searches are turning up both options as what's done in this kind of less-than-textbook situation.
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Old 11-12-2008, 11:44 AM   #4
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Help: Door posts not plumb


Sledge is out....

Have you considered a smaller door? You didn't mention the size of the door so I don't know if that is an option.
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Old 11-12-2008, 12:02 PM   #5
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Help: Door posts not plumb


Quote:
Originally Posted by Marvin Gardens View Post
Sledge is out....

Have you considered a smaller door? You didn't mention the size of the door so I don't know if that is an option.

Well, I think Larsen makes 32" of the same storm door. But that would mean:
- ordering/buying it for another $350
- another 2-3 weeks for delivery
- can't return the 36" door since it's been just over 90 days since it was delivered. And, craigslist never seems to me to be a good deal for the seller.
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:16 AM   #6
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Help: Door posts not plumb


I would add a casing to the outside using 1x or 2x stock to make a face frame. The door would then attached to this squared and plumbed frame.

Another option would be to use a saws-all and/or a cats paw to remove the nails holding the out of plumb post and then plumb and renail or screw it.
I would need to see and measure the opening before deciding the best course of action. See attached illustrations for ideas.
Attached Thumbnails
Help: Door posts not plumb-door-casing-outer.jpg   Help: Door posts not plumb-door-casing-interior.jpg   Help: Door posts not plumb-larsen-door-jamb-detail-.jpg   Help: Door posts not plumb-larsen-door-jamb-detail-2.jpg  
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:45 PM   #7
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Help: Door posts not plumb


Crawdoogie (and other advocates of Option A):

How does one cut the facia boards (1x2s, brick molding, etc.) at the correct angle? You're basically cutting 7/8 an inch off the backside over a 7 foot run, eh?

If you use brick molding, I'm finding it in PVC and in pre-primed exterior wood. Which would do better in this situation and how come?

Thx!

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