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Old 04-06-2011, 08:04 PM   #1
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Header or no


So if we take out this doorway and widen it 12" on each side, do we need to keep the header or will the top plate hold?
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:20 PM   #2
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Header or no


If you widen the opening, yes, you will need to put in a new wider header to provide proper support.

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Old 04-07-2011, 09:51 AM   #3
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Header or no


Quote:
Originally Posted by vsheetz
If you widen the opening, yes, you will need to put in a new wider header to provide proper support.
Dies it still need to be a 12" or could we make it 6" or so
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Old 04-07-2011, 11:08 AM   #4
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Header or no


The header was presumably sized based on the imposed loads. Widening the opening and then installing a header half the depth of the former header would not likely be a wise move.
The only way to know for sure if you can get by with a smaller header dimension would be to have an engineer run the calculations for you.
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Old 04-08-2011, 12:22 AM   #5
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Header or no


As KCT said, do not reduce the size of the header. In the picture, it looks like that wall is a bearing wall so common sense dictates that you need the header. For a difference of $4.00 or so in material don't even think about weakening the support.
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Old 04-08-2011, 11:48 PM   #6
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Header or no


Does the exposed beam running perpendicular to the closet holding the rafters up extend through the closet?

An attic picture from behind the closet side toward the cathedral ceiling would solve it......

Gary
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Old 04-09-2011, 12:10 AM   #7
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Header or no


Good god it looks like a lot of wasted wood in the framing of that house if the little bit of what we see is indicative.

Gary, can you think of any possible likely scenarios that would lead one to think that a header of that size would be needed for a door that small that is directly under an exterior wall like this one?

It is obviously not a second living space above.

Andy.
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:21 PM   #8
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Header or no


My first impression is the framer used a 2x12 for all the doors and windows, a common usage to have them a uniform height (SOP when headers cut on lumber pile). Second thought is if the beam stopped at the closet wall, I guessing it does, then the closet ceiling is only 97" high (notice the insulation) and the back wall of the closet continues up for a second floor behind the cathedral ceiling area. I have framed many houses this way. Though I would have made the exterior closet door wall (insulated), a rake wall without a rafter on it as by the single top plate. The doubled studs abutting the beam post, and the kings, and the cripples tell me there may be some weight bearing above the door wall. Hence the required picture..... So no second floor at all, what does the closet/ceiling roof look like, Andy? Why the insulation? Did I miss a picture?
OP, I'd at least add a positive tie at post/beam.

Gary

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