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ryanb4614 12-22-2011 12:01 PM

Hanging Kitchen Cabinets
 
I bought "cabinet mounting screws" #10- 2.5 in. I also got brass wooden screws 1 in for inside to join the cabinets together.

I am finishing up the floor and my grandfather stopped by and told me there is an easier way to hang cabinets then what I was going to do. I was going to mount them directly to the wall/studs. He said to get 3/8 strips of wood and screw them into the studs and then just mount the cabinets onto those. He said its easier to get them leveled and just to drill into the 3/8 strips. (I think he said 3/8, does seems like they would hold) Anyways is he right? Would the cabinets not be flush against the wall then?

I also have a soffit above the cabinets so I would be using the as a guide.

<*(((>< 12-22-2011 12:23 PM

If you look on the back of your cabinets, most cabinets have a small recess where the backs of the cabinets are dado'd into the sides. What I think he is saying is find out what the measurement from the dado to the back edge of the cabinet side is (3/8", 1/2" whatever) and get some strips of wood that fit that thickness (cleat), find the height you want your cabinet hung at place cleats on the wall with a level and attach them to the studs so that the top of the cleat would allow the top recess of the cabinet to rest on it. Now you have some solid backing that fills the void in the back of the cabinet to screw to. I would still try and mount the screws in the cabinet so that you are in front of a stud.

He was saying easier because this cleat you install on the wall will allow you to support your cabinets while you screw them in, and its easier to level a 4" wide cleat then a cabinet.

Hard to explain but hopefully you can understand what I'm saying.

titanoman 12-22-2011 12:38 PM

Forget all that. Just get him to help you hold them up and screw them to the studs like you planned.
I know what the gentleman is saying, but the cleats may cause more interference than they're worth.
Hopefully the soffits are level and you can just hold em up tight.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2

Augie Dog 12-22-2011 02:19 PM

I build cabinets with that hanging cleat method in mind. Your cabinets may or may not be worth the effort though. Impossible to tell you what the right thing to do for your circumstance is without some pictures of the cabinets, the back of the cabinets specifically.

Here is thread I did some time ago about this method. I hope it helps clarify what he was talking about.

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/ca...de-easy-53217/

Willie T 12-22-2011 07:06 PM

The "French Cleat" method is firm, solid, effective, and easy.

Having said all that, I rarely use it. Too much bother and extra work.

I WILL use it for very high-end products........ but I get paid enough then to absorb the extra time/expense.

Augie Dog 12-23-2011 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willie T (Post 800670)
The "French Cleat" method is firm, solid, effective, and easy.

Having said all that, I rarely use it. Too much bother and extra work.

I WILL use it for very high-end products........ but I get paid enough then to absorb the extra time/expense.

Since I don't deal with factory boxes and it is in my best interest to build boxes with the ease of install in mind, I will stay on the other side of the fence than you on this one.

I find this method to be by far the easiest way to hang cabinets. The hanging cleat creates a perfectly level line to start from. You only need to shim the front up to level. It is easiest to start from the high spot in the room so all boxes are shimmed up and not trimmed down to fit. But there are exceptions to that rule too.

I also can't stress enough that the traditional "french cleat" with 45 deg bevels on the edge is not a good way to approach this. It eliminates the possibility of shimming the top of the cabinet away from the wall. The wall mounted portion would also need to be shimmed perfectly flat on the wall as well. Otherwise the cabinets would not be able to seat down tight to the bottom of the bevel, thus creating problems with horizontal alinement from box to box.

My method is a combination of construction method and installation method that compliments each other. I could see little benefit remodeling an entire cabinet job to include a hanging cleat on the back of the cabinets. This may be where you are coming from. But if the cabinets already have them or already have the room for them, I would take this method very seriously if speed and accuracy is your priory.

mae-ling 12-24-2011 02:26 AM

Some will screw a straight edge on the wall and set the cabinets on this then screw them in, remove the straight edge and patch the holes. We always installed the lowers, then a temporary top (piece of 3/4 ply) that we set boxes on the were 18" high then just set the uppers on the boxes and screw then in. remove boxes and temp top and do the next one.


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