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Old 09-10-2010, 12:41 PM   #1
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Hanging Cabinets


I need to hang some wall cabinets in a kitchen. To make the install easier, I cut out strips of the sheetrock and installed 1/2" plywood blocking to give myself something solid to screw into when there are no studs present.

Most cabinet crews are 2.5-3" long. Those will work for when I'm anchoring into a stud, but they may be too long for when I'm screwing into the plywood blocking.

My question is this...is there a wood screw strong enough to use for hanging cabinets that I can get in lengths below 2" if necessary? I know it all comes down to the sheer strength of the screw.

Thanks!

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Old 09-10-2010, 12:46 PM   #2
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You cut out the drywall and installed plywood flush with the other drywall or did you put drywall over the plywood again?

Why would the screws be too long?

I guess I dont fully understand.

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Old 09-10-2010, 12:56 PM   #3
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I installed the plywood flush the with the other drywall. The cabinet screws I've seen are not threaded the full length of the shank, so I'm concerned the threaded portion of the screw will pass through the plywood blocking and not catch.
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Old 09-10-2010, 01:02 PM   #4
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I would stick with the longer screws just get ones that are threaded all the way.

The top rail (dont know the technical term), the strip of wood across the top of the cabinet (sometimes the bottom as well) that you should be screwing through will be at least 1/2" thick, there may even be a small 1/16" gap between that and the wall still and then you still have another 1/2" to go through for the plywood. I would not go any less than 2 1/2" screws.
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Old 09-10-2010, 02:12 PM   #5
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Why in the world wouldn't you simply use FRENCH CLEATS?
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Old 09-10-2010, 02:27 PM   #6
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Why in the world wouldn't you simply use FRENCH CLEATS?
Hadn't considered french cleats and, personally, have no experience with them. Does look like a great idea though. I'm unsure about the cabinet construction - in terms of how thick a french cleat would need to be for the cabinet to fall flat against the wall - but is a slimline, perhaps metal french cleat something one can find at local hardware/building supply stores?
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Old 09-10-2010, 02:39 PM   #7
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The great advantage to french cleats is that you get substantial support even when you may only be able to hit one stud behind a particular cabinet. You can stabilize the wall cleat by installing a couple of "mollys" in addition to the stud screw. I often also use adhesive on my wall cleats when putting them on the walls. Put some glue on the ones that go on the cabinet backs too.

Most cabinets have recesses behind them that allow for the use of french cleats.

Ace hardware probably carries a selection of metal french cleats.

HINT: If the fasteners for the cabinet cleats will show inside the cabinets, try to work out the cleat locations so that the shelves will hide the fasteners when installed. This is tricky, but looks professional.
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Last edited by Willie T; 09-10-2010 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 09-11-2010, 09:31 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Willie T View Post
The great advantage to french cleats is that you get substantial support even when you may only be able to hit one stud behind a particular cabinet. You can stabilize the wall cleat by installing a couple of "mollys" in addition to the stud screw. I often also use adhesive on my wall cleats when putting them on the walls. Put some glue on the ones that go on the cabinet backs too.

Most cabinets have recesses behind them that allow for the use of french cleats.

Ace hardware probably carries a selection of metal french cleats.

HINT: If the fasteners for the cabinet cleats will show inside the cabinets, try to work out the cleat locations so that the shelves will hide the fasteners when installed. This is tricky, but looks professional.
I know everyone has their way of doing things, but this sure seems like a lot of unnecessary labor, as is fitting the forementioned plywood strip in the drywall. If you hang with washer head cabinet screws into the studs and fasten adjacent cabinets to each other through the stiles, a sumo wrestler cannot pull the boxes off the wall. In more than 25 plus years, I have never had anyone ever pull a cabinet mounted this way off the wall.
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:06 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by troubleseeker View Post
If you hang with washer head cabinet screws into the studs and fasten adjacent cabinets to each other through the stiles, a sumo wrestler cannot pull the boxes off the wall. In more than 25 plus years, I have never had anyone ever pull a cabinet mounted this way off the wall.
Ditto on the quote above.
If you want to use shorter screws, don't use drywall screws. Get some of the newer outdoor deck screws that are epoxy coated. Plenty strong for what you are doing.
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:17 PM   #10
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Use a cabinet mounting screw that is also an anchor.I found them at HD made by Walldog.Don't use a screw that has threads ALL the way on its' shank.It will shear.You do not want the threads in the edge of the cabinet,you want a solid metal piece running thru the cabinet.The screw/anchor will hold it tight to the wall and prevent pull out from weight.The top of the cabinet is where it will want to pull away and the bottom is where you have the shear resistance.You can use drywall screws to attach the cabinets to each other.Check the length.If too long drill pilot hole and cut tip of screw to prevent going thru other sideof cabinet.
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:08 AM   #11
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Go the a real lumber yard and get GRK cabinet screws.

Nice thought on the recessed plywood but not needed when hanging ganged wall cabinets.

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