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-   -   Handrail rake securing to wall - help needed (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/handrail-rake-securing-wall-help-needed-160594/)

SageX0311 10-19-2012 08:29 PM

Handrail rake securing to wall - help needed
 
I have a staircase that is completely closed on the left and 4 steps at the bottom are open to the right. I have a volute box for a starting step and have a volute handrail that I intend to continue upward to a wall at the 4th step. The returns on my 2nd, 3rd, and 4th step overhang to the right of the wall's edge 2-3/4". My handrail is 2-1/4" wide. Great, or at least I thought so when I initially planned things out. After looking at the volute layout template, my handrail will be even with the corner edge of the wall's face. I can't use a rosette without making it look retarded. And I can't use a half newel, without cutting the base of it so that it's not protruding into the stairway. The only solution I've been able to see as a viable option is an angled "L" bracket that is notch fitted into the bottom and end of the handrail. I've also pondered a longer rail bolt to allow for the 1" hole to be further away from the wall and actually accessible. I'd really like some suggestions and opinions. I want to do this as structurally sound as possible.

joecaption 10-20-2012 09:25 AM

Picture would be nice.
A rail bolt so far sounds like the best option.

BigJim 10-20-2012 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SageX0311 (Post 1034273)
I have a staircase that is completely closed on the left and 4 steps at the bottom are open to the right. I have a volute box for a starting step and have a volute handrail that I intend to continue upward to a wall at the 4th step. The returns on my 2nd, 3rd, and 4th step overhang to the right of the wall's edge 2-3/4". My handrail is 2-1/4" wide. Great, or at least I thought so when I initially planned things out. After looking at the volute layout template, my handrail will be even with the corner edge of the wall's face. I can't use a rosette without making it look retarded. And I can't use a half newel, without cutting the base of it so that it's not protruding into the stairway. The only solution I've been able to see as a viable option is an angled "L" bracket that is notch fitted into the bottom and end of the handrail. I've also pondered a longer rail bolt to allow for the 1" hole to be further away from the wall and actually accessible. I'd really like some suggestions and opinions. I want to do this as structurally sound as possible.

I have read through this three times slowly and I am not understanding exactly, if you could post some pictures it may help us help you. Why do the returns over hang the wall by 2 3/4 inches? Is your layout where the outer edge of the spindles sit right against the inside edge of your returns?

Just from what I am envisioning the way you have explained is you have the treads over hanging the wall 2 3/4 inches which is too much overhang. The right end of the riser should be cut on a 45 degree to merge with the outside skirt board which is tight against the outside of wall face. The returns should extend behind the face of the riser and be tight against the skirt board. The outside edge of the spindles (balusters) should be flush with the outside edge of the skirt and the inside edge of the return. This would allow a post (newel post) to have about 1/4 of the post removed so the post will wrap the corner and the rail hit dead center of the post.

The bottom of the post should sit on the tread. If the top tread isn't wide enough for the base of the post to sit on then notch the top step so the post will bypass that step and sit on the full tread below.

Duckweather 10-27-2012 08:46 AM

I am assuming most of this is already assembled? If so, taking it apart and shortening the treads so the rail hits center of the wall probably won't work without damaging the parts. Also assuming the rail bolt is at the top of the rail? You would have to install it roughly at the angle of the rail so it does not get too close to, or go through, the top of the rail.


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