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joeyboy 11-07-2007 11:13 AM

going to make mirror frame/edges out of crown molding or baseboard - dumb idea?
I already hung a rather large mirror in my bathroom and am planning to give it a trim. I'm not necessarily interested in a true frame, I was looking at just putting something around the border.

I found this product that seems like plastic though it may be glass, but it's basically mirror strips you put up over it (with an adhesive). I really didn't like how it looked but it seemed to be the only option.

But then last night I remembered something about just using baseboard or crown molding as a border for a mirror, and that sounds exactly like what would work best for me here.

Does that sound feasible/normal/smart? I guess I'm just thinking that it'd be cheaper and look better than those mirror stick on things. Seems I'd just get a good piece or two of molding or baseboard, cut pieces appropriately with 45 degree angles, chisel out spots for where the mirror's brackets are, and then either use adhesive or finishing nails to put it up (then probably caulk/silicone it if needed). Oh and the trim/baseboard/whatever would be primed/painted same color (perhaps higher sheen) as the rest of the bathroom.

It just sounds too good to be true in my head - cheaper, better looking, comparable ease of install - so I figured I'm likely missing something lol!!

NateHanson 11-07-2007 03:07 PM

That'll work fine for a flat moulding. If you want to use crown moulding, you'll have to build a box around the mirror with flatstock that sticks out from the wall a couple inches, and then install the crown moulding at an angle between the mirror and the box-frame you've made.

Don't put it together with caulk though. Use wood glue and nails. You can use mirror or construction adhesive to stick it to the mirror/wall.

joeyboy 11-07-2007 06:21 PM

sweet thanks for the advice!!

I was soooo psyched when I (came up with? remembered a past tip?) that idea last night, seemed too good to be true as it'd be comparable time to install, waaay cheaper than the mirror pieces, and look a million times better!

Can't wait to put that up, should be done within a few days, still trying to figure out which order to do my bathroom (getting a full paint/caulk/clean/fixtures/etc job)

space_coyote 11-07-2007 09:19 PM

I've made a couple mirror frames with "rabbeted chair rail" molding. Works like a charm (if it's the look you're going for, of course!) !

The mirror edges will fit into the rabbets, hiding any seam that you might get otherwise. Alternatively, you could cut them into whatever molding you like.

timthetoolman 11-10-2007 12:38 AM

i like coyote's idea with using the rabbeted chair rail. For the diy-er this would be much easier than ripping or routing a notch to fit around mirror.
And instead of chiseling out for the hanging brackets, have you considered adhering the mirror to the frame, using adhesive and maybe staples shot on an angle? (Carefully!) Then you can attach picture hangers to the whole assembly. This way the mirror will set on chair rail or whatever you use much better!

joeyboy 11-10-2007 08:41 AM

I'm actually thinking of just using adhesive and putting the framing dead on top of the mirror. The problem is the wall isn't plumb, so the mirror was kind of a problem to mount in the first place, I'm thinking that if I base the frame on the wall it's going to be way off level compared to the mirror. So, I'd either have to remove the mirror and build an actual frame with these edges and install the whole thing, or just keep the mirror up and use an adhesive (suggestions on type?) to put the molding directly onto the mirror. Just sounds a million times easier (until removal of course!)

scorrpio 11-12-2007 07:39 AM

If you want the mirror to have a 'window' look, you probably want to use the casing moulding, not baseboard or crown. I would rip 3/4-1" wide wood strips of same thickness as mirror, fur around the miror, attaching the bottom piece sturdily (screws into studs), then mount casing to these strips so it partiall overlaps the mirror - and take the mirror clips out completely. Any gaps between furring and wall due to wall being uneven can be caulked.

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