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Old 11-25-2012, 08:04 AM   #16
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glue/nails for stairs


theres no rules against mentioning brands.. this site is here to help educate. how can you find out what products to use if we cant tell you specific products to use or not use

liquid nails, pl premium and lumberlock are your 3 best options. the only thing to avoid is the big tubes. the big tubes are full of air which means the adhesive will continue to ooze out of the tubes after the trigger has been released on the caulking gun. pl 400 is really bad for this

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Old 11-25-2012, 12:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Millertyme View Post
There are a few reasons why I do risers first

-in cases where there is already ceiling up under the stair, you can nail or screw through back of riser into tread.
- if there is any separation between riser and tread the space will only be seen looking down from the top as opposed to being seen at eye level as one walks up the stairs.
- the riser can be shimmed from the back (between the back of riser and stringer) to keep it straight, this way there s no need to scribe in a tread.
- open stair applications with returned treads.
Ok....I buy this....(and I mean it in a good way)....things that I had not considered.....especially the second item.....
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:37 PM   #18
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Ok....I buy this....(and I mean it in a good way)....things that I had not considered.....especially the second item.....
I see why you were going to do it the other way after seeing your steps, you can't get to the back side of your riser with the plywood on the stringers as it is now.
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:48 PM   #19
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:35 AM   #20
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listen to millertyme. I have built more than a few myself.
If you are doing a mitered skirt, a trick I've learned is to tack the top (top of run) of the skirt board and leave the bottom "float" so you can adjust for a perfect miter as you go up. Pull the tack nail when you get towards the top, so it now can be adjusted.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:04 AM   #21
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listen to millertyme. I have built more than a few myself.
If you are doing a mitered skirt, a trick I've learned is to tack the top (top of run) of the skirt board and leave the bottom "float" so you can adjust for a perfect miter as you go up. Pull the tack nail when you get towards the top, so it now can be adjusted.
I always tacked my skirt in place and made a mark where it was so I could put it back exactly where it came from after mitering for the risers, and never had any problems at all with it. Pulling a tight, inside radius, mitered skirt was always fun though. Letting one end float is a good way to have a gap where you don't want one at least for me it would be.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:23 PM   #22
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Whenever I see a job with the plywood attached I either rip it out or walk. It is too much of a pain to try to make everything right and in a couple of years it won't be no matter what it looks like when you finish.

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