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Old 01-08-2010, 06:52 PM   #1
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


I finally got my first two boards of crown on the wall and am wondering if I should glue the corner. (Not until doing it do all the tips sink in.) This one was supposed to have a little miter cut at the bottom, but the point broke off so I cut it clean. I am not sure why the ogee in the middle is off so much but I think with a tad of caulk and touch up paint it will be passable.

I nailed the middle first. Am wodering if I should have first fit the ends and then nailed the middle and worked towards the ends; driving the cope into the but cut. So far, everything I cut seeks to be a tad long, which makes it so tight it is hard to fit the corners together.

Here is a picture of corner #1. It isn't nailed so I can still pop it out far enough to get in their with some glue. After I decide to glue it or not, I plan to nail the boards up as close as 4" from the end Any syuggestions will be appreciated and I can take criticism.
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?-pict0074.jpg   Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?-pict0075.jpg  

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Old 01-08-2010, 06:57 PM   #2
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


I dont feel the glue is a plus there. What I have done is used an adhesive caulk that also helps fill gaps as its pushed in place, then finess it with a 5 in one knife by following the contour

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Old 01-09-2010, 09:02 AM   #3
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


No need to glue the joints. Just caulk them. Remember you can nail crown just about anywhere since you should be nailing into the top plate.
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:07 AM   #4
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


There is no need for glue. The cope might be off due to a wrong setting on the miter saw or a lack of experience with the coping saw. On copes like this, I test fit it with a pieces of scrap laying around. To fine tune it, you can wrap the scrap in sandpaper and use it as a form to get a tight joint. With a painted molding there is a margin of error that can be rectified with some caulking.
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:47 AM   #5
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


how did you establish the run.rise of your crown? looks real flat to me
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Old 01-09-2010, 12:24 PM   #6
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


I honestly DO hope you are NOT trying to use bevel settings on the saw. Straight 45 degrees on the swing are all you ever need to do. Using the "upside-down & backward" method, you get perfect bevels everytime.

CLICK HERE to see how the upside-down & backward method works.

Assuming you ARE using this easier "U & B" method, you also may find that marking the bevel edge with a pencil before coping will help a great deal in keeping you right on the profile.
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:45 AM   #7
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


OK, the one clear thing is that gluing is out.

No. I have the bevel set to zero. Also, all corners were measured and all are 90 degrees. I am cutting upside down and backwards. I am using a 1X6 for a crown stop. I suspect it may be a problem. That or the molding is snaky. I will check the trueness of the 1x's edge in the morning.

I got the rise and run of the moulding from the manufacturer and confirmed it by laying it in a square. It rises on the wall 3-3/4" and runs out on the ceiling 3-11/16". The spring angle is 45. Here are pics of all 4 corners; none of the boards closer than a couple of feet of each corner.

The first is the second corner I did. The one to the right of the first corner, which is pictured above. I like it.

Next is corner 3 followed by corner 4, each being at one end of board #4. Each has a 1/8" gap between the board it is coped (board 3) and the one coped into the other end of 4 (board 1).

I think other booboos in corners 3 and 4 are repairable. (The point on the coped end of board 4 that fit into the little moritse cut in the end of board 3 broke off. I think I can fashion a repair. As for corner 4, that little brown area at the edge of the coped end of board 1 is where paint flaked off. I think a littel putty and paint will clean it up.)

My guess is I am missing a high point on the back of the coped ends of boards 1 and 4. Less so but perhaps the same area on the cope of board 2. I think I may have to take board 4 down to relieve the back of the cope of 4 and 1, but don't think that the first corner is so bad to warrant pulling it apart.

Anyway, I think I am starting to get it. I figured out too late that perhaps I should be cutting my boards 1/32 shorter. They fit super snug, with the exception of corner 2, the one that came out pretty good. It fit snug, but not tight.

I really appreciate all the advice. This is just my starter/test room. I have much more to do once I get some kind of technique down.
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?-pict0068.jpg   Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?-pict0070.jpg   Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?-pict0067.jpg  

Last edited by Klawman; 01-10-2010 at 06:05 AM. Reason: Clarify photos
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Old 01-10-2010, 06:18 AM   #8
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


Quote:
Originally Posted by tpolk View Post
how did you establish the run.rise of your crown? looks real flat to me
Here is the manufacturer's picture of the moulding I used. It is impossible to read, but it runs out 3-11/6 on the ceiling and has a 3-3/4" rise.
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Old 01-10-2010, 12:35 PM   #9
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


Laid a straight edge against the board clamped to my table to use as a crown stop. There is a high spot in it, perhaps 1/32. This makes it impossible to get the edge of the top of th crown flush against the board. One end or the other can be as much as 1/16" nearer or futther from the fence than the opposite end of the stop. I will remedy that with a piece of masonite checked for trueness and am mad at myself for not checking the edge of the board bought just for use as a stop. Meanwhile, I want to get this room done.

Is that slight rocking enough to be causing the problems I have? If so, can I still save the boards (without pulling them down, shortening them, then lengthenin them with a splice, and cutting a new cope)?

I am going to run a test on some scrap. First I am going to make an inside corner cut with the same stop in place. Then I am going to remove it and cut a piece without a stop or with a pirece of MDF if I have an absolutely true piece in the garage. Than I will compare the two.

Here is a pic of the setup. The pencil is in the area of the high spot along the edge of the stop board. The close up shows how far the straight edge can rock away from the stop if the end of the crown against the left end of the stop board is snug.
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?-pict0070.jpg   Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?-pict0069.jpg  
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Old 01-10-2010, 12:55 PM   #10
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


before we had these slick compounds the old style of cutting worked great with fence tall enough. klaw what i do is take a 2-3' piece coped on both ends and check fit for final cut. You can roll your crown up or down to adjust length of face cut to fit variation in piece already set. i also dont nail piece on wall closer than 12" as this allows me to press the next piece in and by tapping up or down on naile piece you can adjust the angle slightly and thus the fit. hope this makes sense
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Old 01-10-2010, 06:04 PM   #11
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


Gave it a try (rolling up the wall) and it solved that issue pretty well (closing the 1/8" gap at the top of the corner. Still, given there were so many little mistakes and I try to take pride in whatever I do, I pulled it all down. Will get new boards and probably trash these, but may do my daughter's room with them as they can be cut down to fit. When messing with the corners, I also discovered where I wasn't cleaning out enough on the back of the cope. Cleaned it pretty well on the wall with sandpaper. What took days to do wrong, I believe I can now knock out without much trouble in a day. Especially as I am getting faster and better at coping with a combo of my cheap skill saw, dremel, sandpaper and file. Should get much better cuts now that I have a smooth and flat stop (which I could have made out of scrap mdf I had on hand). I just didn't want to fill in and sand all the holes from all the times the boards were pulled down. Plus too many points were knocked off of the copings. I llike the look of the points recessed into the mini miters. Thanks again TPOLK
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Old 01-10-2010, 06:22 PM   #12
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


In addition to rolling the crown a little in the corners, you can sneak a shim or two at the ceiling or wall to tighten a joint if absolutely necessary.

A 1/16" or so can easily be caulked to cover the small gap left by the shim.

Remember that it always looks worse from the staging than the floor. If it looks good from the floor it is good.
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:24 PM   #13
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


Thanks, Augie Dog. BTW, I used to live off Sonoma Highway a few miles beyond Santa Rosa. Beforemoving there, lived on Montgomery for a bit. I liked Santa Rosa.

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Old 01-10-2010, 10:52 PM   #14
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


The gap between the ceiling and the top of the joint formed by boards 4 and 1, pictured below, was caused by a bad mud job in that corner of the ceiling.
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:20 AM   #15
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Glue coped inside corners of crown moulding?


if you are using the rail style of cutting you can also roll the piece on the saw rail as this will slightly change your cope, just need to remember which cut you are trying to shorten or lengthen. thats also why i use a gauge piece

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