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Old 02-14-2011, 12:59 PM   #1
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Framing in an unfinished basement

I have a townhouse where the initial owner framed up the unfinished basement but went no further. The walls are not where I want them, so I'd appreciate any advice about moving them around - and tips from anyone who has had the same problem.

One specific issue involves a portion of the wall framed against the exterior concrete wall (insulated). That wall is about a total of 40' along that outside wall although there is a 6' section that is kicked out about 5" from the rest to keep it in front of a drain pipe, water lines, and vent pipe for the washer.

It really screws up the inside room, so I was wondering whether there were huge problems with kicking that wall back in line with the others running the drain and vents through them, etc. Nothing in the wall is weightbearing, so what are the problems with having the plumbing in the wall? It seemed that laziness was the main factor for the original kick-out.


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Old 02-14-2011, 01:12 PM   #2
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No problem cutting the framing apart and setting the portion in question back in line with the concrete foundation.

A strong recommendation (unfortunately I did a project without it) is to leave an inch gap between the stud framing and the concrete if you use batt insulation. The insulation should not touch the concrete. (cellulose blow in insulation is also not recommended because you can't keep it from touching the concrete and accumulating moisture and growing mold.)

In cold climates, water pipes should not be behind an insulated exterior wall or framing. They should be inside the framing, with no insulation between them and the inside paneling or wall covering.


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Last edited by AllanJ; 02-14-2011 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:43 AM   #3
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Thanks Allan,

Would you run the 2 inch pipe through the studs and notch for anything bigger. I am sure that for a regular framed wall code wouldn't want things cut up too much, but for a floating wall in a basement I thought it might be different.

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Old 02-15-2011, 09:27 PM   #4
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I would add flat studs to the notched ones for strength. A sill sealer under the bottom plate for thermal/capillary break, foam board on concrete, no plastic, no air space for convective loops, insulate foam the rims, ADA;

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