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kupalino · 10-14-2009, 11:25 AM

There is a 4-inch diameter metal post in my basement to support the joists and I'd like to know how to finish it. Do I use OSB/plywood and 2x2s and box it up just like I would with the heater duct? Kind a like soffit but vertical?

Thanks.

AllanJ · 10-14-2009, 12:34 PM

Yes you can box it up by creating a "vertical soffit".

In one of my projects I was putting up walls in the basement and chose to position the walls so as to enclose some of the posts. This worked fine although in a few instances I needed to fasten thick cardboard to edge of the nearest stud so the drywall make a firm contact instead of bending and cracking at a gap between it and that nearest stud when it bridged the post and the next stud.

rustyedge · 10-14-2009, 09:20 PM

You can buy pre-finished post covers at most home improvement stores. Many styles are availabe. I used two piece knotty pine log looking post covers to match the log cabin look of my basement. These two piece covers were glued together around the post to form a one piece log.
woodworkersshoppe.com is where i got mine.

carpenter377 · 12-26-2009, 03:11 AM

Dependiing on the look and how big you want the post cover up to be. you can use premaid columns or frame and drywall. Another method I hae seen is a 1 inch rope wrapped tightly around the post. It all depends on the lokk you want. Good luck on your project.

bob22 · 12-26-2009, 08:09 AM

I made a tambour-type pole wrap by contact cement gluing 1/2-round molding onto some canvas-like fabric and then gluing that to the pole with silicone. Once on the pole, I ran some Alex caulk between each piece of wood and then painted it. A bit of work but it came out pretty nice. Instead of a box in the room, it is a bit more interesting to the eye.

firehawkmph · 12-26-2009, 08:42 PM

Kupa,
you can use finish lumber also. Here's a pic of an oak one I made. All 3/4 stock, mitered corners, biscuited together, radiused edges.
Mike Hawkins

carpenter377 · 12-27-2009, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firehawkmph

Kupa,
you can use finish lumber also. Here's a pic of an oak one I made. All 3/4 stock, mitered corners, biscuited together, radiused edges.
Mike Hawkins

I love the wood look. Im getting ready to start to frame my basement after the new year. I think I will use the wood box look. Thanks for the pics. I will take pics. start to finish and post them.

SULTINI · 12-28-2009, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firehawkmph

Kupa,
you can use finish lumber also. Here's a pic of an oak one I made. All 3/4 stock, mitered corners, biscuited together, radiused edges.
Mike Hawkins

Looking Good Firehawk you do nice work.

firehawkmph · 12-28-2009, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SULTINI

Looking Good Firehawk you do nice work.

Thanks,
I appreciate that. It all started years ago when I worked for my brother in law when I was a kid. Everything had to be just right. So now, whenever I do anything around the house, he inspects it with a fine tooth comb when he comes over. So I usually try to overdo a few things now and then to keep him guessing.
Mike Hawkins

kupalino · 12-30-2009, 10:16 PM

firehawkmph,

I like the look. My wife likes it too. Where did you buy the wood? Lowes? Home Depot? I'll definitely do this. Thanks.

firehawkmph · 12-31-2009, 09:48 PM

Actually,
I bought the wood from my lumber supplier that I was using when I was building houses. I would't get the wood from the box stores. They charge too much and you never know what you are getting. Find a local lumberyard or preferably a millwork shop that makes their moldings and finish lumber onsite. They usually have higher quality lumber and are good people to deal with. Not only that, but they will have a much better variety of molding profiles and thicker ones to boot. It's nice using casing that's 3/4" thick. The big box stores don't do a good job with the moldings they stock. Most of it is very thin and not much detail to it.
Mike Hawkins

LarryS · 01-02-2010, 02:42 PM

Hi

One way to lower your costs is to use 3/4 veneered plywood and then router the corners to accept a 3/4 x 3/4 hardwood then profile to taste. Considerably cheaper

Larry