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Shaotzu 04-02-2011 02:35 AM

Framing Advice
 
Two easy questions for a basement finishing job...

1) Finding a straight reference is tough as walls are rarely straight. I checked and it appears that the centerline support is straight all the way down the center of the basement. Would this be a good starting point potentially to build 90s from? I've got the square, level and 3-4-5, but just wondering what opinions might be in using that as a starting point.

2) Framing doors - I know where doors are going already down there. Should I cut the sill plates and leave my 30-something inches now? Or is there some reason the install the floor plates and then cut them out?

kwikfishron 04-02-2011 06:58 AM

I would start by pulling numbers off a outside wall and pull a string (or use your laser) across the basement, use that line as a reference point. Use that line to pull your numbers off of instead of a probably crooked foundation wall.

Cut out the sill plate for your doors after your done framing.
Make sure you have attached the plate to the floor on either side of the opening before you cut it out.

Gizmoman 04-02-2011 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaotzu (Post 621662)
Two easy questions for a basement finishing job...

1) Finding a straight reference is tough as walls are rarely straight. I checked and it appears that the centerline support is straight all the way down the center of the basement. Would this be a good starting point potentially to build 90s from? I've got the square, level and 3-4-5, but just wondering what opinions might be in using that as a starting point.



2) Framing doors - I know where doors are going already down there. Should I cut the sill plates and leave my 30-something inches now? Or is there some reason the install the floor plates and then cut them out?


If the ceiling isnt finished you can measure out off the existing foundation inside sill plate what ever measurement you want. Then plumb that mark down on both ends and snap a reference/control line.
Use your 3/4/5 method off of the control line from that point. :thumbup:






If your going to build the walls laying down then dont cut the opening until later. If your building the walls up leave the plates out of the door opening. Why have to cut it out later.

Ron6519 04-02-2011 11:18 AM

You leave the bottom plates in doorways so both sides of the door are in the same plane. It's just an easy way to get it correct. I usually cut the bottom 1/2 of the plate so I don't have to come into concrete with the saw blade later on.
Ron

mrgins 04-02-2011 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron6519 (Post 621776)
You leave the bottom plates in doorways so both sides of the door are in the same plane. It's just an easy way to get it correct. I usually cut the bottom 1/2 of the plate so I don't have to come into concrete with the saw blade later on.
Ron

This is what I do too. Cut maybe 1/2" on the bottom side of the bottom plate and finsh off when you're done framing

Joe Carola 04-02-2011 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaotzu (Post 621662)


2) Framing doors - I know where doors are going already down there. Should I cut the sill plates and leave my 30-something inches now? Or is there some reason the install the floor plates and then cut them out?

After you snap your chalkline and mark your door opening you nail the bottom plates on the marks. No reason to run the plate through and cut later. Your nailing on a straight line, the opening will be straight from one side to the next.

Willie T 04-02-2011 06:38 PM

The reason that I leave the bottom plates in (and cut halfway through from the bottom) is that it seems to help keep the bottom plate from splitting from slaming at least four nails in so close to the otherwise cutoff ends of the plate at the door opening.

Willie T 04-02-2011 07:07 PM

1 Attachment(s)
On the squaring of a room.....

The "ideal" room on the left would be our hope......... But hope in one hand, and do something else in the other, and see which one gets filled up first. :no: :(

Usually we get something perhaps not as bad as the one in the middle, but still off too far to work with. In that case try to find at least one side with a couple of corners close to 90 degrees. Then pull off that side (as I've shown 2' measurements at both ends) and work your 90 turns off that 'control line'.

Barring any good corners, pick your best guess at a straight side and layout a perpendicular line as close to the center point of the wall as you can get. (view #3) You can pull all your measurements off that control line and basically construct a square room within a messed up outer shell.

I have given you the measurements to assure 90 degrees with the two triangles. Those numbers shown are accurate for two feet to either side of the middle of the wall, and six feet out into the room.

Willie T 04-02-2011 07:13 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here's a couple more drawings on geting that all important rectangle correct. The second picture won't do you a whole lot of good, but I thought I'd include it for anyone thinking about doing some footings.


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