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pwa 03-27-2013 08:40 PM

Forrest blade for miter?
Hi to all, I have tried to sort this out thru past threads but I'm having a hard time picking a blade for my 12'' craftsman miter.Last summer I cut up about 1000sq ft of lp siding for a garage with it and the blade is about done.I was thinking about a freud 80 tooth then I read about the forrest blades.I plan on siding some of my house this summer and am trying to justify the price of the forrest to myself.$140 for a chopmaster II, but it will probably be the only one I will ever have buy.:thumbup: Thanks in advance for input

Jason34 03-27-2013 08:49 PM

I've never used a good quality blade when doing siding. In fact i install my blades backwards when cutting siding and never had a problem.

pwa 03-27-2013 08:55 PM

the lp siding is a wood composite well you know sawdust and glue:yes: and I was hoping to use the same blade for interior trim too.

firehawkmph 03-27-2013 09:39 PM

ditto on what Jason said. I have a chopmaster II that I use just for trim. For anything else, I buy half way decent box store blades when they're on sale. I wouldn't waste the Forrest blade on anything but trim. You don't need that fine of a cut on siding.
Mike Hawkins:)

ddawg16 03-27-2013 09:45 PM save those worn out blades for doing stuff like vinyl....

As for blades....I've had good luck with Ryobi....and when Costco has a can sometimes get a 2 blade combo and one 60 tooth....

The Freud's are is Festo....

pwa 03-27-2013 09:45 PM

Thats a good point, I took jason34 reply wrong I thought he meant he never bought a good blade an d cut aluminum with the blade backwards

Jason34 03-28-2013 05:20 AM

Nah i was refering to cutting vinyl. My bad. At work we have a 10" 80t irwin marples which i like. Nice smooth cuts with no chips and whatnot. I was wanting to get the 100t for my 12" muted saw but i can't afford $70. Will be going to my local harbor freight and getting a 96t for $30. Only has one review but its a good one. I had their 80t 10" for my old muted saw and i couldn't complain about that one so ill give this one a try.

jagans 03-28-2013 10:16 AM

I refrained from answering until I got more info. While most of what the others say is correct, I have found the following to be true.

1. A poorly balanced or made 12 inch miter saw blade wobbles like heck, which often results in a really crappy cut. They make stabilizers to help with this, but if the blade is a POS its a POS.

2. Just to pick a blade at random, you will pay three times the price of a freud blade for a forrest, so it really comes down to how many decent cuts you get out of the blade until it needs sharpening.

I would say without a doubt that if you are a pro, that uses his saw every other day or so to make a living, definitely buy a Forrest, but if you are a once in a while user, a Freud will do fine.

One thing that is very telling to me, is that Forrest sharpens and tunes blades other than their own, and when you get them back, they cut better than when they were new.

Jason34 03-28-2013 10:25 AM

Correct me if im wrong but aren't stabilizers only for 12"+ blades to help prevent the blade from flexing when cutting bevels and miters?

jagans 03-28-2013 10:49 AM


Originally Posted by Jason34 (Post 1147732)
Correct me if im wrong but aren't stabilizers only for 12"+ blades to help prevent the blade from flexing when cutting bevels and miters?

I guess that is partly true, but I have seen 12 inch miter saw blades wobble badly on straight cuts too. I think its a function of blade thickness, balance etc. Im pretty sure that Forrest recommends stabilizers, so that tells you something.

Jason34 03-28-2013 02:00 PM

Well it also depends on how hard the blade is cutting. I have a cheap old blade on my saw I got with my harbor freight saw and it doesnt show any signs of bending away from the stock when cutting. You can tell when its doing that by looking at the cut itself. If you see actual saw marks on the cut where it looks like the blade was bumping out as you made the cut then either you are not letting the blade do the work, blade is warped, or blade is just junk.

deck hand 03-28-2013 03:53 PM

Forrest blades
Yes I bought this $ 140.00 blade and yes it cuts nice and smooth.
I only use it on my cross cut when I'm making a special project. I like to make the old fashion School Clock using Oak. the cuts must not show any rough edges of course. I never use it for any thing else.
Also they request that you return their blade back to them to sharpen and balance, the blade will be good as new, the cost I don't know. I guess you would get what you pay for.
$140.00 dolars you don't want some garage cutter doing this blade. Although
a few are very good,
I did know an old man who was the best around to my knowledge. worked from his garage but was in business for 50 years He had the top of the line equipment and some he invented too. Started as a young man around 1922 after WWI He was gassed and could not work. He died years ago of course. late 60's

Deck Hand

woodworkbykirk 03-28-2013 03:56 PM

i wouldnt invest in a $140 blade for a $200 saw, if you were using a $700 saw yes.. the fact its for siding hell no.. just use the stock blade on it or buy a freud avanti blade

only put the blade on backwards for cutting vinyl siding and soffit

pwa 03-28-2013 05:42 PM

Thanks, I think I will get a freud off fee bay and I bet it will a great deal better than the stocker that came with it.

firehawkmph 03-28-2013 05:59 PM

you might want to check with Peachtree Woodworks. They run some pretty good sales. You can get on their email list and they will send you an email about once every week or week and a half about some sale items. The one time they had brand name saw blades on sale, they were 70-90% off.
Mike Hawkins:)

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