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Old 01-05-2012, 12:34 PM   #1
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Floating Shelf Support


I have some extra solid maple butcher block that I would like to turn into floating shelves. I have a tentative plan for installation but I'm not sure it has sufficient support. The shelf will be 40" long and 8" deep. I plan to drill 1/2" steel rods 4" into the shelf and then 3" into the studs. I am able to hit two studs at 12" in from each end. Does this seem like enough support or do I need to revise my plan? There will be kitchen items sitting on the shelf, but nothing terribly heavy. Also, what is the best way to secure the rods into the shelf/stud. I have read epoxy glue is a good option but I'm not sure.

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Old 01-05-2012, 12:39 PM   #2
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Floating Shelf Support


I think I would counter bored and clearence drilled the shelve and used hanger bolts instead.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2001694/2001694.aspx

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Old 01-05-2012, 01:17 PM   #3
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Floating Shelf Support


Geez Joe....thats a lot of wood hanging on there. I think I'd do it has the OP has suggested.
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Old 01-05-2012, 03:27 PM   #4
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Floating Shelf Support


I would take the OPs idea one step further--drill all the way through the shelf---add an over sized hole for a plug--then install with a nut and washer---plug the hole and be done--easy to install or remove.
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Old 01-05-2012, 03:32 PM   #5
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Floating Shelf Support


And you think two rod only 4" into the shelve with no way to draw it tight to the wall is a better way?
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:15 AM   #6
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Floating Shelf Support


Do I think its better than 5/16 x3 hanger bolt? Yes. Its a heavy butcher block shelf. Wheres it going to go?

If it needs to be more solid, then Mike had a great idea.

Simmer down. We all have different ideas.
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:19 AM   #7
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I can usually find at least three right ways to do just about any thing---
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:57 AM   #8
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Man...isnt that the truth.
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:41 PM   #9
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Floating Shelf Support


If what I think joe is recommending is what I believe its what I would do. Drill holes in from back, then in bottom make a small hole which will allow you to put a nut on the machine thread of the hanger bolts. This will let you install the bolts into the studs, then slide the shelf on the bolts, put nuts onto the thread from the hole in the bottom and tighten with a wrench.
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:46 PM   #10
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Floating Shelf Support


I never said what size or lenght bolt to use. I just gave a web site so the OP would know what to be looking for.
I would use a 1/2 bolt and the longest one possible and still have room for the nut and plug.
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:44 AM   #11
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+1 ^ Now that I'll go along with.
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Old 01-07-2012, 07:33 AM   #12
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Floating Shelf Support


you could chisel or rout out a 1"x2" section from the back of the shelf(I'm assuming the butcher block is 1.5" thick?) that will be against the wall, leaving as much material as you can on the top and some on the sides and bottom to hide it. Make a block to fit inside of that, use lag screws to attach the block to the studs, then slip the butcher block over that and screw it in from the top. No easily seen hardware, and it will be easily removeable. Lag screws are very strong, I have them holding up my 6' long gate, but they go in easy with a normal drill/driver.
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Old 01-07-2012, 11:55 AM   #13
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Floating Shelf Support


Maybe you could counter-bore two holes 4 inches deep in position to hit the studs then use a 7 inch lag 3inches into the stud. Plug & finish
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:39 PM   #14
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It's only 40" wide so I think a minimum of two supports (obviously!) would hold it up, but I'd angle the rods and the holes to hold it against the wall. You could also screw the rod to the back edge of the shelf and slip the unit into holes predrilled into the studs.
If you plan on putting a lot of weight on the shelf, then I'd go with oh'mikes method. If you don't like the idea of plugs showing, you could rip off a strip of shelving lengthwise, install the shelf as oh'mike says, and then glue the strip back on.

What kind of weight are these shelfs holding up?

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