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Old 01-13-2013, 03:14 PM   #31
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First attempt at kitchen cabinet


Yes, just purchased some 2x4's at Lowes, the composition of which was "whitewood." Never heard of the stuff. Can't remember anyone ever saying, "Gee, look at that forest full of WHITEWOOD trees!!"

WHITEWOOD has a strange resemblance to pine.

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Old 01-13-2013, 11:19 PM   #32
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First attempt at kitchen cabinet


yea for the next cabinet ill make the drive to HD for some poplar
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:14 AM   #33
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First attempt at kitchen cabinet


Consider using cabinet-grade plywood instead of big box store offerings. I made a couple practice cabinets out of big box oak plywood. Switching to cabinet-grade plywood to my "real" cabinets was almost like cheating. The cost difference isn't much.

Rather than use interior rails to square up the top, I cut right-angle triangles from plywood scraps and used pocket screws and glue to install them.

Instead of using 2x4 bases for a toekick, I just notch the toe kick out of the cabinet sides. You're going to have to do that at any exposed end, so you may as well practice now.

Don't be afraid to cheat and use a brad nailer to help you hold your parts together while you glue'n'screw. I love the Rockler pocket hole clamps for putting together face frames. They hold things flush and together simultaneously.

Do not "forget" to wear proper PPE. You don't re-grow eyes.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:22 AM   #34
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First attempt at kitchen cabinet


My cabinet sides dont touch the floor because of water. If i have a leak, the 2x4's will be less likely to rot out. I will use the triangles on the vanity cabinet for my bathroom, but otherwise im using the rails because i will also use them to secure the countertop down. I would use a brad nailer but alas that requires power, which im short in supply of at the moment. I am going to get one of the Kreg clamps that has a peg on one side to hold the pieces together though. Right now im using a normal Kreg clamp but it doesnt work well on small areas or on perpendicular places like the other clamp will.
Thanks for responding.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:25 AM   #35
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First attempt at kitchen cabinet


Oh and about the plywood - The cabinet-grade stuff requires a store that is not big box. Unfortunately, im in a pretty rural area and there arent any stores like that around here except for one, and its only open till noon and doesnt deliver. I work till five, so im forced to go to either Lowes or Home Depot. Home Depot is cheaper but Lowes is closer, so its pretty much the same price wherever i go. Im just upgrading to poplar instead of pine. But i am not replacing the face frame on this cabinet so this one will just have to be a little different. I dont think it will matter much once it is painted.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:21 AM   #36
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First attempt at kitchen cabinet


For painting oak to match poplar, you might want to sand & paint the oak an extra time or two.

Oak: paint, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand, paint

Poplar: paint, sand, paint, sand, paint

I'm not a painter, so you may want to consider other opinions but it is my understanding that you want painted cabinets to be smooth. Since pint will raise the grain of the wood, that means sanding between coats. And since oak has a pronounced grain, it maybe gets painted and sanded more.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:25 AM   #37
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First attempt at kitchen cabinet


on this cabinet its pine, i believe. Its called whitewood, which i am certain is another word for pine. I dont have any oak face frames, i thought it was oak but now im certain its pine. the box of the cabinet is made of oak though, and it doesnt have to be smooth since it will be inside the cabinet. Im just painting the inside to make it brighter.

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