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Old 01-11-2013, 07:50 AM   #16
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"Don't use a 1x3 for the middle of the facing. Use 2" wide everywhere, also for your doors."

I always use a full 3" wide center stile. Then your doors will be evenly spaced from one cabinet to the next. Stiles and rails on doors are dictated by the style of door you are building. I, personally wouldn't use stiles and rails that narrow for a door. Since you are painting these anyhow, I would not spend the extra money for oak plywood. If you feel you need to use 3/4" for cabinet sides, (I use 1/2"), then I'd opt for either lauan or shop grade birch.
I see you've added flanges to the inside cabinet top for attaching your counter top. I run mine across the front and back. That adds some beef behind the top rail of the face frame. If somebody slams a heavy drawer shut, it won't allow the top face frame rail to flex or warp.

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Old 01-11-2013, 08:57 AM   #17
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i intend to paint them because of my color scheme. white walls, tan-ish brown countertop, tan-ish brown accent wall, warm brown wood floor. Too much brown screams eighties. Thats why im painting them, and that way they will match the top shelves. Whitewood is the name of the wood that was on the tag, thats all i know. Lowes isnt one for accuracy. and the 1x3 is so that my doors will be able to line up properly. trust me that face frame isnt going anywhere, its solid as a rock. Pocket screws tend to do that. Besides, there is no drawer on this one, and the supports have to be front to back so that the sink will fit.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:00 AM   #18
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cleveman: i dont want to use 1/4" for the doors because its impossible to attach it using pocket screws and i dont like tracks, theyre crap. i intend to paint the insides, but im not polying the face frames, its a waste of time and money. Plywood is porous. What will happen if you dont put a 2x4 base on it, and your sink leaks? it will go through the drain hole and rot out your cabinet at the bottom. If you use a 2x4 you dont have this problem.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:20 AM   #19
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Oh and im not using biscuits because of two reasons. #1, they are held in by glue. After a certain amount of time glue lets go. I prefer screws. #2 the tools you need to cut a biscuit hole is expensive. The Kreg jig is only $45 and much easier to use. Admittedly it does throw sawdust everywhere, but what cutting tool doesnt?
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:15 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrailerParadise View Post
Oh and im not using biscuits because of two reasons. #1, they are held in by glue. After a certain amount of time glue lets go. I prefer screws. #2 the tools you need to cut a biscuit hole is expensive. The Kreg jig is only $45 and much easier to use. Admittedly it does throw sawdust everywhere, but what cutting tool doesnt?
Pocket screws are the best choice for face frames....
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:16 AM   #21
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I mean use 1/4" ply for the door panels. Your rails & stiles will be 2" wide, I guess. You just groove the rails and stiles to accept the panel. You can also rabbet them to accept it, then you have to figure out some system to keep it in from the back.

I have my sides go to the floor. So you have a 22 1/2" side 34 1/2" long with a dado for the bottom, maybe a dado for a shelf, a rabbet on the top for the top, and the back is rabbetted to accept the 1/2" back. My tops are rabetted to accept the 1/2" back as well. The back runs on past the shelf and bottom and stops at the floor. I put a few screws in the back where it passes the bottom and shelf. Everything is 3/4" except the 1/2" back and gets glued and screwed together.

Then these "boxes" which can have drawers, shelves, or nothing, are all primed nicely and get two coats of paint on top of that.

As for any plumbing leaks in a sink base, the parts in contact with the floor are the sides and back.
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:23 AM   #22
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Your statement that glue will eventualy let loose is totally false! I bounce around the skies in a 40 year old wooden framed airplane held together by glue and fabric. Plus, there is funiture hundreds of years old held together with glue joints.

Pocket screws and biscuit joints have become popular in recent years because of their ease and speed of assembly They requrie very little skill and when properly made they are strong.

But nothing demonstrates great workmanship as an well made dado, lap, dovetail, or mortase and tenon joint held together by glue. Those joints will last the lifetime of the piece.
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:47 AM   #23
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i know what you mean, cleveman. But the fact remains that you cannot use pocket screws with 1/4" ply and the grooves suck. If a child leans against it, or something falls inside it and it gives, then you have to take the whole door apart to fix it. No thanks. mine are much sturdier. And i know the only parts in contact with the floor is the sides and back, well if those parts get waterlogged and weak, guess what is going to happen to your cabinet! You need a firm foundation. You can build your own the way you want, but i want mine to last.
Bruntson, the glue does help, but i would not rely on it by itself. Ive seen too many cabinets fall apart that were just put together with glue. THats why i use pocket screws. Biscuits are just too unreliable in my opinion. You have a different opinion, thats fine, but dont berate me for mine.
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:29 AM   #24
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Ok, I bow to your expert opinions and vast experience of kitchen cabinet building. I certainly would not to force my humble opions on you.

Good luck to you!
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:33 PM   #25
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No need for the attitude and sarcasm, Bruntson. Just glue might work well for some people but i want my cabinets to still be standing twenty years from now. If i make them out of 1/4" plywood and glue, they wont be holding up any better than the particleboard junk they sell at lowes.
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:43 PM   #26
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You can use 1/2" thick panels, whatever.

But I don't understand why you can't use pocket screws and 1/4" panels.

Can you use 1/2" panels and pocket screws?

Are you planning on screwing into the panels?

I'm a dowel guy. I have a 5 gallon bucket left, then maybe I could consider going to the screws or biscuits.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:24 PM   #27
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I guess after 30 years of building cabinets we get to learn from the first time amatuer. Gorilla glue, Pocket screws and 1/2" door panels it is from now on.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:52 PM   #28
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if you are going to be rude there is no need to respond. we all have difference of opinion. sorry i dont understand how dowels and glue and biscuits could even come close to the results of pocket screws. and there is no possible way to put a pocket screw in 1/4" wood because the jig only goes down to 1/2". no you dont screw into the panel, you screw through the side of it. if you dont agree that is your business. there is no reason to reply to my thread and be so rude about it. my method worked just fine.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:59 PM   #29
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Let's be nice here---the proof is in the results---if you have a good suggestion on how to accomplish the same task with the tools this member owns---please help---

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Old 01-11-2013, 09:19 PM   #30
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thanks oh'mike

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