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Dorado 04-05-2013 07:29 PM

Filling cracks in fake baseboard
1 Attachment(s)
I almost paid about $1.50/ft for real molding that I'd have to shape into a different profile so it matches my current molding. Then saw that 1" x 3" furring costs about $1.50 for 8' so I chose the best piece I could find went with that. I'm using a hand plane to shape it and it's coming out good (see the old and new in the photo), but what would you recommend to fill the cracks? I'll only need about 4' of it so I don't mind the time it takes to patch it. I think I'll drill pilot holes for the nails and patch it after it's installed. It will be painted, not stained.

jagans 04-05-2013 07:50 PM

You bought the lowest grade of pine you can buy in a furring strip. I would go back and get a piece of C Select and start over, but you can use DAP glazing compound if you want.

The fur might twist and shout, and I mean like the Isley Brothers, not the Beatles. :laughing:

Dorado 04-06-2013 01:57 PM

DAP glazing compound is supposed to be used with oil based primer which I don't have. I'll consider this an experiment and just use 1-2-3 primer and spackle on it. If it doesn't work out I'll get better wood.

joecaption 04-06-2013 02:05 PM

Sure making a whole lot of work for yourself trying to cheap out.
Just buy a piece of ranch moulding and be done with it.

Dorado 04-06-2013 02:14 PM

That's the $1.50/ft one I was talking about that I'd have to reshape a little to match perfectly. I think HD only sells it in 10' lengths, so it's 10x the price of my furring. I'll cut a piece from a better quality pine board if this doesn't work. It's a pretty harmless experiment.

joecaption 04-06-2013 02:19 PM

It's sold by the ft. just buy what you need.

Dorado 04-06-2013 02:41 PM

Then they have a surprisingly poor molding scraps section, and no partial lengths with the full lengths. I'll double check the next time I'm there.

oldhouseguy 04-06-2013 05:18 PM


Originally Posted by Dorado (Post 1153607)
Then they have a surprisingly poor molding scraps section, and no partial lengths with the full lengths. I'll double check the next time I'm there.

They have a saw and a mitre box stand there, you cut what you need.

jagans 04-06-2013 05:56 PM


Originally Posted by oldhouseguy (Post 1153719)
They have a saw and a mitre box stand there, you cut what you need.

Yeah and the saw is about as sharp as a brick. I asked one of the guys at HD about this once and he said that HD lawyers told them they had to use the dull saws they have there so the customers don't get hurt.

I guess they weren't around when my Grandfather explained to me at 10 years old why a dull tool is the most dangerous thing in your toolbox. He was right back then and he is still right today, even though he is long gone and I'm telling my grandson the same thing.

Dorado 04-06-2013 06:08 PM

I used the saw to cut the furring strip in half for the walk home. My only complaint is that the teeth weren't fine enough. Dull would have been better in my case because it wouldn't jam on the wood as easily. And for some reason, there's a gap on the cutting table that's several inches wide. It shouldn't be wider than a saw blade. I was afraid if I cut molding they'd scan the UPC and charge me for the entire piece no matter how little I took. I thought the per-foot cost was like a per-pound price for a watermelon. It doesn't necessarily mean you can cut it. I'll probably go there tonight and ask.

jagans 04-06-2013 08:42 PM

By the time you go there you already spent more for gas and time than the right pine would have cost you in the first place. :thumbup:

Dorado 04-06-2013 09:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
The closest thing to my baseboard is this casing, and it's hidden on the end of the molding aisle so I missed it before. And yes, I can buy only the 4 feet that I need. I'm still thinking about it. Luckily, Home Depot is close and near where I shop.

djlandkpl 04-06-2013 09:20 PM

They should have it in paint grade pine. What is shown is oak which is why it's pricey.

Dorado 04-07-2013 12:39 AM


Originally Posted by jobercian, from another forum
No shame is using materials in places other than what they were intended for. Unless-- you don't think. Seeing 2 1/4" cheap window/door casing as baseboard or chair rail comes to mind.

I'll either use the furring or something I cut from better quality pine. My molding is 2-1/2" and I'd have to raise the 2-1/4" casing off the floor to make it fit, then jobercian would think I don't think. Although that may balance out everyone here who thinks I over think.

hand drive 04-07-2013 11:02 AM

the piece in the first post that you custom made should work, just predrill so it does not split and prime it well and use painters putty to putty the holes and somewhat float the edges where it meets the other molding.

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