Forums | Home Repair | Home Improvement | Painting | Interior Decorating | Remodeling | Landscaping


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Carpentry

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-08-2008, 05:39 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 18
Share |
Default

Fiber Cement


I want to re-side my house with fiber cement lap siding. Can it be installed directly over existing T-111. The existing is mostly in pretty good shape.

I know this has been a question before but I can't find the thread.

Thanks,

woody
Icefishww is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2008, 06:18 PM   #2
Registered User
 
Termite's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,520
Default

Fiber Cement


T1-11 is essentially plywood with a rough-sawn/grooved face, so I don't see any reason why it couldn't perform as a substrate for fiber cement.

I'd be sure to locate and mark all the studs with a chalkline so you know where to drive the nails when installing the fiber cement (assuming lap siding).
Termite is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2008, 06:36 PM   #3
Lic. Builder/GC/Remodeler
 
AtlanticWBConst.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 7,556
Default

Fiber Cement


Just make sure that the T-111 is all at the same surface level (flush to the house).

Do you have any kind of housewrap under that? Over that?

I'd also confirm that all sections of the T-111 are in good condition, no rot, no warping, attached solidly to the house frame, etc...
AtlanticWBConst. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2008, 08:53 PM   #4
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 18
Default

Fiber Cement


well I just got off the wall and now after cutting out a bad spot it looks as though there is no sheathing under the T1-11. Is that normal? I thought there was always sheathing under siding.

the T1-11 overall is in good shape with only a few small rotten spots that I think I can cut out and repair before I side over it with the f/c. I'm thinking I should lay down a layer of 15# felt over the T1-11 prior to the siding???

I appreciate the help guys
Icefishww is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2008, 09:20 PM   #5
BUILDER / REMODELING CONT
 
buletbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: LONG ISLAND N.Y
Posts: 1,543
Default

Fiber Cement


I have seen this Along the shore here. They felted over the studs and installed T1-11 over that. Did they felt over the studs??? if not yes you can install felt over the T1-11. The T1-11 will act as your house sheathing. If they did felt over the studs you risk the possibility of rotting the T1-11 trapping moisture between the two.
buletbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2008, 09:30 PM   #6
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 18
Default

Fiber Cement


I can't see any sign of felt on the studs and I will look closer once the sun comes up tomorrow. They might have used backed insulation however and I'll check on that too. Would that cause the same moisture trapping scenerio with the felt over the T1?

thanks
Icefishww is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2008, 09:43 PM   #7
BUILDER / REMODELING CONT
 
buletbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: LONG ISLAND N.Y
Posts: 1,543
Default

Fiber Cement


NO! You should be fine. Just make sure all your but joints and seams are caulk with a good flexible caulking. GOOD LUCK Bob
buletbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2008, 05:50 AM   #8
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 18
Default

Fiber Cement


What's the best flexible caulking to use these days? The stuff I've had to peel off on this current job has been on for at least 10 years and is good as new. Really amazing how it stuck and remained flexible! Hope to be able to find just as good now but nothing seems as good as it used to be. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

tks,
Icefishww is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2008, 11:36 AM   #9
Registered User
 
Termite's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,520
Default

Fiber Cement


Just don't buy the cheapest painters caulk they sell. You do get what you pay for.
Termite is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2008, 01:36 PM   #10
I have gas!
 
Clutchcargo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,754
Default

Fiber Cement


This is a general observation with my limited experience.
The clear colored caulk seems to stay more flexible than the white. I don't know if it's true across the board. Anybody else notice this?
__________________
I tear things down and build them up.
Clutchcargo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2008, 02:37 PM   #11
Registered User
 
Termite's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,520
Default

Fiber Cement


Caulk's flexibility is based on its make-up. Clear caulk is usually silicone based, but you can get any caulk in white, including the cheapo stuff.

I would not buy based on color, I'd buy based on content.
Termite is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2008, 07:51 PM   #12
liscenced electrician
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Oregon coast
Posts: 961
Default

Fiber Cement


Quote:
Originally Posted by Icefishww View Post
well I just got off the wall and now after cutting out a bad spot it looks as though there is no sheathing under the T1-11. Is that normal? I thought there was always sheathing under siding.
the whole point of t11 is that you don't need sheathing under it. Just pretend you have 1/2 inch plywood subsiding up. Tar paper over it and then put your hardy plank up.
jimmy21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2008, 05:48 AM   #13
Pro Slate Roofer
 
tinner666's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Richmond, Va.
Posts: 1,561
Default

Fiber Cement


Don't rely on caulk at your joints! That'll cost you later in repairs.
6" x 9" aluminum or heavy galvanized backers are required.

Scroll down this page http://www.albertsroofing.com/Window%20Flashing.htm until you get to the Hardie Plank area. You'll see at least 1 joint with a backer, and window/door details too.
__________________
Frank

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
tinner666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2008, 06:40 AM   #14
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 18
Default

Fiber Cement


So then at the corners there isn't a need for a bead of caulk where the trim meets the metal flashing, before the f/c plank is installed? Does the metal flashing extend behind the trim too where then gravity keeps most any water traveling down and out instead of laterally across and beyond the edge of the flashing? Am I over thinking this??

What do guys like for trim material with f/c installation? PVC?

thanks
Icefishww is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2008, 04:21 PM   #15
BUILDER / REMODELING CONT
 
buletbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: LONG ISLAND N.Y
Posts: 1,543
Default

Fiber Cement


[quote=Icefishww;137768]So then at the corners there isn't a need for a bead of caulk where the trim meets the metal flashing, before the f/c plank is installed?
If its a cut edge I would prime it and then caulk it.
But hardy just spec's leaving a gap at trim pieces then caulk'


Does the metal flashing extend behind the trim too where then gravity keeps most any water traveling down and out instead of laterally across and beyond the edge of the flashing?
The metal flashing just needs to extend down over the hardy plank below, making sure it does not extend beyond the piece you are installing.
The Metal flashing is just another option for installing the siding. But its a very good safe guard as the privies poster stated. make sure the but edges are factory painted as hardy states. or make sure you prime and then caulk the seam.
Am I over thinking this?? No.

What do guys like for trim material with f/c installation? PVC?

AZTEC or KOMA GOOD LUCK BOB.
thanks
buletbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Siding Options Vinyl vs. Fiber Cement obrien11j Building & Construction 35 09-26-2011 05:08 PM
"Maintenance Free" Siding Materials (Vinyl, Steel, Fiber Cement) diggitydog Building & Construction 12 01-23-2009 04:24 PM
Rotten cement - skim coat or board? BradG Building & Construction 1 11-25-2007 02:25 PM
cement falling into basement from cement porch above. Betsy G Building & Construction 3 10-21-2007 12:53 PM
Siding: Cement Vs. Cedar Grumpy Remodeling 5 03-19-2005 01:07 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.