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Icefishww 07-08-2008 05:39 PM

Fiber Cement
 
I want to re-side my house with fiber cement lap siding. Can it be installed directly over existing T-111. The existing is mostly in pretty good shape.

I know this has been a question before but I can't find the thread.

Thanks,

woody

Termite 07-08-2008 06:18 PM

T1-11 is essentially plywood with a rough-sawn/grooved face, so I don't see any reason why it couldn't perform as a substrate for fiber cement.

I'd be sure to locate and mark all the studs with a chalkline so you know where to drive the nails when installing the fiber cement (assuming lap siding).

AtlanticWBConst. 07-08-2008 06:36 PM

Just make sure that the T-111 is all at the same surface level (flush to the house).

Do you have any kind of housewrap under that? Over that?

I'd also confirm that all sections of the T-111 are in good condition, no rot, no warping, attached solidly to the house frame, etc...

Icefishww 07-08-2008 08:53 PM

more to think about
 
well I just got off the wall and now after cutting out a bad spot it looks as though there is no sheathing under the T1-11. Is that normal? I thought there was always sheathing under siding.

the T1-11 overall is in good shape with only a few small rotten spots that I think I can cut out and repair before I side over it with the f/c. I'm thinking I should lay down a layer of 15# felt over the T1-11 prior to the siding???

I appreciate the help guys

buletbob 07-08-2008 09:20 PM

I have seen this Along the shore here. They felted over the studs and installed T1-11 over that. Did they felt over the studs??? if not yes you can install felt over the T1-11. The T1-11 will act as your house sheathing. If they did felt over the studs you risk the possibility of rotting the T1-11 trapping moisture between the two.

Icefishww 07-08-2008 09:30 PM

no felt
 
I can't see any sign of felt on the studs and I will look closer once the sun comes up tomorrow. They might have used backed insulation however and I'll check on that too. Would that cause the same moisture trapping scenerio with the felt over the T1?

thanks

buletbob 07-08-2008 09:43 PM

NO! You should be fine. Just make sure all your but joints and seams are caulk with a good flexible caulking. GOOD LUCK Bob

Icefishww 07-09-2008 05:50 AM

one more issue
 
What's the best flexible caulking to use these days? The stuff I've had to peel off on this current job has been on for at least 10 years and is good as new. Really amazing how it stuck and remained flexible! Hope to be able to find just as good now but nothing seems as good as it used to be. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

tks,

Termite 07-09-2008 11:36 AM

Just don't buy the cheapest painters caulk they sell. You do get what you pay for.

Clutchcargo 07-09-2008 01:36 PM

This is a general observation with my limited experience.
The clear colored caulk seems to stay more flexible than the white. I don't know if it's true across the board. Anybody else notice this?

Termite 07-09-2008 02:37 PM

Caulk's flexibility is based on its make-up. Clear caulk is usually silicone based, but you can get any caulk in white, including the cheapo stuff.

I would not buy based on color, I'd buy based on content.

jimmy21 07-09-2008 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Icefishww (Post 137301)
well I just got off the wall and now after cutting out a bad spot it looks as though there is no sheathing under the T1-11. Is that normal? I thought there was always sheathing under siding.

the whole point of t11 is that you don't need sheathing under it. Just pretend you have 1/2 inch plywood subsiding up. Tar paper over it and then put your hardy plank up.

tinner666 07-10-2008 05:48 AM

Don't rely on caulk at your joints! That'll cost you later in repairs.
6" x 9" aluminum or heavy galvanized backers are required.

Scroll down this page http://www.albertsroofing.com/Window%20Flashing.htm until you get to the Hardie Plank area. You'll see at least 1 joint with a backer, and window/door details too.

Icefishww 07-10-2008 06:40 AM

metal
 
So then at the corners there isn't a need for a bead of caulk where the trim meets the metal flashing, before the f/c plank is installed? Does the metal flashing extend behind the trim too where then gravity keeps most any water traveling down and out instead of laterally across and beyond the edge of the flashing? Am I over thinking this??

What do guys like for trim material with f/c installation? PVC?

thanks

buletbob 07-10-2008 04:21 PM

[quote=Icefishww;137768]So then at the corners there isn't a need for a bead of caulk where the trim meets the metal flashing, before the f/c plank is installed?
If its a cut edge I would prime it and then caulk it.
But hardy just spec's leaving a gap at trim pieces then caulk'


Does the metal flashing extend behind the trim too where then gravity keeps most any water traveling down and out instead of laterally across and beyond the edge of the flashing?
The metal flashing just needs to extend down over the hardy plank below, making sure it does not extend beyond the piece you are installing.
The Metal flashing is just another option for installing the siding. But its a very good safe guard as the privies poster stated. make sure the but edges are factory painted as hardy states. or make sure you prime and then caulk the seam.
Am I over thinking this?? No.

What do guys like for trim material with f/c installation? PVC?

AZTEC or KOMA GOOD LUCK BOB.
thanks


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