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10-15-2008, 10:08 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 722
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a few interior door install questions
1. to provide adequate gap spacing for drywall, i was gonna set small pieces of drywall at various spots along the door frame on each side between it and the 2x4 before i start fastening it. is this the standard technique ?
2. does it matter at which parts of the door frame i shoot nails in and at which frequency (every how many inches) ?
3. this is a bathroom door and the floor inside will be tile and outside i do not know yet - either tile or carpet, not sure. so, to demarcate, i was gonna set a good ole oak plank threshold. it needs to be slightly wider than 4", so i got a piece of 1x6x6ft oak plank ($17, ouch) to cut it to fit each way. since the floor is concrete and i do not believe in glue, i was gonna drill four holes for anchors in the concrete, and in the sill, i was gonna pre-drill four shallow holes (not penetrating through) wider than the screws and then drive the screws through the bottom of them and into the anchors. to make the screws invisible, i was gonna cut small plugs out of a dowel stick fitting into the wide pilot holes, glue them and sand them before applying finish (glue is fine in this low key application  ). does this sound like a viable plan ?
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10-15-2008, 02:48 PM
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#2
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Another DIY Zombie
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Champlain, NY (NY, VT, QC Border)
Posts: 216
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a few interior door install questions
Regarding the Drywall scabs, etc. I would advise that, but keep in mind that it is doubtful that you will be able to get both sides of the door jamb to line up with each each wall (inside and outside), so the advice is to make the more visible side the tight one. For instance, on my bathroom door, the entrance is about 40" wide. I have a 32" door. On the hallway, the wall has a good 2' before the next opening, so I kept the door snug to the hallway, and let the jamb extend into the bathroom a bit. Basically with my trim up, there is a slight gap (1/8" behind the trim) that is not seen.
Regarding the nailing, I set the door in place, level and nail the hinge side first, then nail the latch side such that the door will be properly adjusted.
Also, I usually put 2 nails in the top, bottom, and middle (near the hinges), similar to the latch side. Make sure you use blocking where you are nailing, or the door frame may rack on you.
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10-15-2008, 03:21 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 722
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a few interior door install questions
what is a jamb ?
what is the latch side ? is that the side of the frame on which the door is hinged.
i'm a total door imbecile.
thanks.
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10-16-2008, 07:14 AM
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#4
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Another DIY Zombie
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Champlain, NY (NY, VT, QC Border)
Posts: 216
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a few interior door install questions
Jamb is also known as the frame (two sides, and top)
Latch side is the side with the recess for the door latch strike plate
Hinge side is the hinge side
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10-17-2008, 04:29 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 31
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a few interior door install questions
Some things are done differently depending on where you live, codes, etc. That being said, here in my world I usually don't install the doors until after the sheetrock is hung. This makes haning the rock easier and installing the door easier. Also, whenever I'm putting tile in a room, I don't hang the doors until the floor is done, because the door jamb (frame) usually sits directly on top of the tile. I usually extend the tile into the door opening so that the transition from tile to 'other' is directly under the door when it's closed.
To answer the other questions, I usually set the hinge side of the jamb first, generally with a nail on either side of the doorstop about every 12-16 inches down the leg. The other side of the jamb I usually adjust so that the reveal (gap between the door and frame is consistent all the way around, using shims (cedar) to fill between the jamb leg and the rough opening.
CLear as mud?
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