in the process of installing exterior trim/ moulding around exterior doors and window. I'm unsure whether to use PVC or Polyurethane Foam (Fypon). I've worked with PVC before and familiar with cutting, adhering and painting which looks great and is maintanence free for 10 years now, but the seams tend to seperate in colder temperatures (northern NJ). Has anyone ever worked with the polyurethane foam moulding (fypon)? The profiles look great, but not sure how they hold up over time in an exterior application. Do they expand and contract in temperature variations, and do they need to be repainted oftern???? Any advice would be great.. Thank you.
Azek requires a little learning--and a shot of "Cristy's Red Hot' glue ---
It does expand and contract more than wood--so expansion joints--usually a half lap or tongue and groove are used.
Never tried the foam--sorry.
Lone Framer next door at contractor talk has extensive experience with Azek---look there --he frequently look in over here,too--If he sees this and chimes in--listen---Mike----
mikes right. azek does expand and contract quite a bit.it does require special joinery to hide gaps forming such as ship laps
i install it regularly on the homes we side. typically we use a small bead of white poly butyl siding caulking in the joints before joining the two peices. it hides any gap and seals it at the same time. when posts get clade we dont rip it on a mitre to create mitred edgs.. it doesnt hold up they open up and can totally blow apart if the 4x4 or 6x6 twists. instead two sides get installed at 1/8 wider than the post. then the secondary peices are ripped at 1/4 wider than the dimension of face to face of hte already installed azek.. this creates a 1/8 reveal on the overlap and if it does shrink you cant look into the joint. its the same idea when doing a ship lap joint instead of making a scarf joint on long runs
stainless steel nails are a must.. galvanized gun nails will rust and bleed in no time..the first large job we did with azec was $30k in material... unfortunately we used 16 gauge galvanized nails and they all bled.. we had to go back scrub it down and fill the holes with window caulking to keep moisture from getting at them anymore. another trick is when you have to rip it down. lightly sand the edge with 120 grit then take some laquer thinnner on a rag and lightly wipe the edge. it will melt the very top edge and smooth out the porous edge
as for the foam trim.. yes it looks good when its new but i woiuldnt trust it on a house with kids around. its no where near as durable as azek. also you'll need to use cortex screws to fasten it along with matching plugs to hide the holes
heres some of our work..
now i sense a loneframer post coming on... LOOK TONTO
I sat thru a PVC product class over the summer (related to continuing education class for my construction license). This class was handled by a PVC product Rep and also a PVC Manufacturing Rep.
They are still trying to figure out the best methods for installation. They are really going by field reports and looking at call-outs to "problem" installations - and compiling information (what is working, and what is not working in the installation process = long term).
They stated to add additional fasteners along wider widths of PVC trim stock and use construction adhesive behind trim boards.
Also, here is Fypon's Installation Link: http://www.fypon.com/support/installation/guides.asp
We generally go to Fypon products when specialty panels, custom forms, brackets, pediments, columns, etc. are needed.
FWIW - This is a picture of a Front Main Facade using BOTH new PVC & Fypon materials:
Old Rotting Wood Facade:
Final Result with Fypon Panels, columns and PVC trim boards & moldings (Note: some areas have been "built-out" using PT 2x4's, and the carriage lights were not yet installed):
Last: Be prepared to spend some money when dealing with purchases of Fypon products, PVC, PVC-adhesives & glues, and stainless steel fasteners.
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