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Old 04-05-2009, 04:18 PM   #16
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Extend House Roof Over Back Deck


Thanks Ron. I understand your observation now when I went back to look at it. I also have that thought in my head and I will be hiring a carpenter with this experience to do the job with my help as I know I won't be able to do this one on my own.

Gbar, your questions are good and made from your observations as well. I appreciate that. Now I am learning some more things. The lag bolts securing that post I will address with the Arch too but I will also comment on your other questions incase they get answered here. (I will bring them up with the Arch as well.)

1. No one mentioned the 3 posts holding some of the weight near the center. I wanted these to take some off the 3 footings in the ground where those small piers are.
I'm hoping this will have an impact on the 3 front posts.

2. 16' posts would have been too long. I considered that. I also have many shorter posts...so I decided to use them. I hope that was not a mistake, but not sure if you can go with longer posts here. I believe the max is 16'?... so that would not have worked.

3. I was not aware that DF would not be acceptable for the joists? Based on loading charts I referred to, DF was the superior material. The rim joists are PT 2x10. The only dble is the beam in the front, same material. This beam sits on the 3 front posts and these posts are attached to this beam with thick gauge angle iron (steel) I obtained off our new industrial washing machines iremoved aftershipping. I thought they were superior to what I found at the lumber stores. They are painted (I put a layer of roofing peal and stick between them and the PT) and screwed them in using two 1/2" x 3" lags for each angle bracket...2 angles/post, 4 bolts per post connection. The thickness of the angle bracket is approx 3/16". Hope that was acceptable. (I saw the contractors removing them...I couldn't let them go to waste.) all other connectors used for the other post-to-deck were the connectors Ron was referring to in the earlier photos. Also, the bottom and top plates of the storeage below are hiltied down to the foundation and nailed into the joists above and bottom/top plates toenailed to posts. All connectors/nails are galvanized to be used with the new chemical wood treatment (ccccccc bla bla whatever they call it.)

4. The upper posts I mentioned earlier but will again, are attached to the rim joists and center joist usng 1/2" thru bolts x4 per post and these posts sit directly on top of the post below.

5. The deck layers are 5/8 ext ply t&g screwed to joists using required deck screws and minimum spacing between joints, staggered. Another layer of same, staggered from joints below, same screws just penetrating the ply below. 1/4 cement board, screwed using required screws and mortared joints. Primer for peel and stick roofing membrane recommended by Schluter. Schluter Ditra mortared onto roofing membrane. Posts and other areas requiring water-proofing have Jiffy seal applied. porceline tiled surface with schuter expansion joint. The posts which penetrate the deck...

My point? I am aware that having posts penetrate the deck surface is not recommended due to water penetration but these posts penetrate the entire deck and will allow water run-off thru the deck, not into the deck when my posts start to "check" (the other reason for the cedar-clad posts). The Jiffy seal has been installed as per instructions by the Jiffy Seal (extremely stretchy rubber membrane material for around windows and other openings) manuf and can be seen in the photos. (Rep drew me a sketch for my appplication.) I'm hoping to attach pics of this but have the earlier pics were a bit confusing and attached on a new thread...a bit of a mess. I'll try now...

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Old 04-05-2009, 04:25 PM   #17
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Extend House Roof Over Back Deck


Thanks Ron. I understand your observation now when I went back to look at it. I also have that thought in my head and I will be hiring a carpenter with this experience to do the job with my help as I know I won't be able to do this one on my own.

Gbar, your questions are good and made from your observations as well. I appreciate that. Now I am learning some more things. The lag bolts securing that post I will address with the Arch too but I will also comment on your other questions incase they get answered here. (I will bring them up with the Arch as well.)

1. No one mentioned the 3 posts holding some of the weight near the center. I wanted these to take some off the 3 footings in the ground where those small piers are.
I'm hoping this will have an impact on the 3 front posts.

2. 16' posts would have been too long. I considered that. I also have many shorter posts...so I decided to use them. I hope that was not a mistake, but not sure if you can go with longer posts here. I believe the max is 16'?... so that would not have worked.

3. I was not aware that DF would not be acceptable for the joists? Based on loading charts I referred to, DF was the superior material. The rim joists are PT 2x10. The only dble is the beam in the front, same material. This beam sits on the 3 front posts and these posts are attached to this beam with thick gauge angle iron (steel) I obtained off our new industrial washing machines iremoved aftershipping. I thought they were superior to what I found at the lumber stores. They are painted (I put a layer of roofing peal and stick between them and the PT) and screwed them in using two 1/2" x 3" lags for each angle bracket...2 angles/post, 4 bolts per post connection. The thickness of the angle bracket is approx 3/16". Hope that was acceptable. (I saw the contractors removing them...I couldn't let them go to waste.) all other connectors used for the other post-to-deck were the connectors Ron was referring to in the earlier photos. Also, the bottom and top plates of the storeage below are hiltied down to the foundation and nailed into the joists above and bottom/top plates toenailed to posts. All connectors/nails are galvanized to be used with the new chemical wood treatment (ccccccc bla bla whatever they call it.)

4. The upper posts I mentioned earlier but will again, are attached to the rim joists and center joist usng 1/2" thru bolts x4 per post and these posts sit directly on top of the post below.

5. The deck layers are 5/8 ext ply t&g screwed to joists using required deck screws and minimum spacing between joints, staggered. Another layer of same, staggered from joints below, same screws just penetrating the ply below. 1/4 cement board, screwed using required screws and mortared joints. Primer for peel and stick roofing membrane recommended by Schluter. Schluter Ditra mortared onto roofing membrane. Posts and other areas requiring water-proofing have Jiffy seal applied. porceline tiled surface with schuter expansion joint. The posts which penetrate the deck...

My point? I am aware that having posts penetrate the deck surface is not recommended due to water penetration but these posts penetrate the entire deck and will allow water run-off thru the deck, not into the deck when my posts start to "check" (the other reason for the cedar-clad posts). The Jiffy seal has been installed as per instructions by the Jiffy Seal (extremely stretchy rubber membrane material for around windows and other openings) manuf and can be seen in the photos. (Rep drew me a sketch for my appplication.) I'm hoping to attach pics of this but have the earlier pics were a bit confusing and attached on a new thread...a bit of a mess. I'll try now...

Oops, the pics are on my work computer. If anyone wants to see them let me know. I can send them tomorrow.

Thanks. I look forward to more feedback if possible otherwise I'll be talking to the Arch. later this week.
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Old 04-05-2009, 04:42 PM   #18
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Extend House Roof Over Back Deck


Well, I messed up my reply...Now I have another new thread. Can anyone tell me how to "edit" and attach pics so that it doesn't become a new thread. I'm sorry!

(I thought going advanced would do it with the pics but that's what happened.)

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