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Old 12-18-2008, 09:30 PM   #1
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The effects of non-galvanized nails in PT Lumber?


I am in the beginning stages of remodeling my basement. I plan to use PT lumber on the bottom plate of the 2x4 walls. I have read many times that stainless or galvanized nails should be used to prevent corrosion.

Since the walls i am framing are not load bearing and the hardware will be covered by sheetrock (rust not showing), would it be okay to use non-galvanized nails?

I ask this question because I already have a box of 4000 16d short smooth coated nails for my nail gun. I will probably never use them if they dont get used on this project.

Thanks, Jeff

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Old 12-18-2008, 09:56 PM   #2
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The effects of non-galvanized nails in PT Lumber?


The ACQ plate is highly corrosive to non-galvanized steel, and it will eventually degrade the nails. Use your box of nails for everything else, but get some hot-dipped galvanized nails (hand drives if necessary) for the stud to plate connection. If your inspector is on the ball, he'll require hot-dipped anyway.

Stainless nails are completely overkill for this application, and they're uber-expensive.

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Old 12-18-2008, 10:06 PM   #3
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The effects of non-galvanized nails in PT Lumber?


Do you think it would be alright to install all the studs with the non-galvanized nails and then come back with a strip of galvanized nails and put a couple in each stud? I am just trying to figure out a way to do this without changing nails in the gun constantly. I prefer not to hand drive. I have a hard time keeping the stud where i want when i drive by hand.

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Old 12-19-2008, 01:54 AM   #4
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The effects of non-galvanized nails in PT Lumber?


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Originally Posted by jeffmn View Post
I prefer not to hand drive. I have a hard time keeping the stud where i want when i drive by hand.
One way, you can use your foot on the opposite side of the stud to hold it from shifting while your hammering, but i would agree, its much easyer with air guns.

A second thing you could do if you have level floor joists above, is use two bottom plates. Hiltity your PT down then box nail your wall and then kick it up as if you where building from scratch, then you can use galvanized by hand. The second plate will give you the room to be able to flip the wall up and not get hung up on the bottom of the joists above.

Just some ideas...

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Old 12-19-2008, 08:45 AM   #5
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The effects of non-galvanized nails in PT Lumber?


Jeffmn, the more nails you put in the stud the weaker you make the connection, so I wouldn't do what you propose because the "slick" nails would not be counted. Two 10d nails or three 8d nails are required at each stud to plate connection. I'd suggest either using the galvanized nails for everything to save the inconvenience, hand drive (it isn't hard after you get the hang of using your foot to hold the stud), or use an untreated bottom plate to connect to the studs with a 2nd treated bottom plate beneath it.
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Old 12-19-2008, 05:45 PM   #6
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The effects of non-galvanized nails in PT Lumber?


Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmn View Post
Do you think it would be alright to install all the studs with the non-galvanized nails and then come back with a strip of galvanized nails and put a couple in each stud? I am just trying to figure out a way to do this without changing nails in the gun constantly. I prefer not to hand drive. I have a hard time keeping the stud where i want when i drive by hand.

Yes you can do this if you want to. Dont use to many nails, another thing you can do if you can get ahold of some Borate treated lumber for the plate you can use regular nails in it without any problems.
Borate is white looking with a chalkt like stuff on it.

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuild...ood-decks.aspx
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Old 12-21-2008, 10:19 AM   #7
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The effects of non-galvanized nails in PT Lumber?


Non coated nails in ACG will barely last 2 yrs, only hot dipped galvanize or stainless are recommended. And do not use aluminum as flashing, only use copper. This does not apply to your job, but is for general info.

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